Expectations of India....not assisted by Emma's friend telling her how much she hated the country. Underlined by the journey from Hong Kong to Mumbai whereby the male Indian occupancy felt the need to spend the entire flight hovering around us at the back of the plane. Much to our annoyance and that of the Chinese flight crew. Our negative impressions were instantly contradicted whilst waiting for our taxi. A hubbub of smells and movements followed by an overwhelming journey through the shanty towns to our hotel. Emotions felt are inexplicable, as we trailed through dark impoverished roads, though nicely summed up by "If we don't feel comfortable we're checking into the Holiday Inn" Other than the sheer poverty, five year old children begging for rupees and / or food, which is widespread and underlines every detail of this diary, Mumbai has two outstanding monuments: The Gateway of India and Victory station. Both remnants of the British legacy and both stunning. The Gateway of India, built for...King George V in 1911 was the last port of call when the British left in 1947. On arrival at the Gateway we are swarmed by a mix of hawkers and religious men. Tanya is blessed before the obligatory photos are taken and within twenty minutes of arrival we are in the Taj Mahal 5 star hotel drinking a beer, trying to recover. Intense to say the least. Stark contrast to Mumbai, a day trip to Elepanta Island, a peace haven of man made caves beautifully carved depicting the three principal Hindu Gods. Shiva the protagonist : the destroyer, Brahma the creator (not so popular) and Vishnu with solid support. On this island we met our first "cow in the road" as well as our first "hole in the ground" loo. Many more to follow I assure you. The 12 to 13 hour train journey to Goa was uneventful until the end. We were told we would arrive at 7pm. At 6pm as the train drew into Thivem (our stop), we were caught unawares and a mad rush to get all bags and items is made to get off the train. Before we are ready the train is on the move and I am left hanging out the door whilst Tanya and Claudia are bellowing from the platform "Jump!Jump" I am still undecided as the train picks up speed and throw my bag first. I think at least that can go, however my decision is made after my top is caught in the handle. I know I have to go as the force of the bag yanks me forward. Flying through the air I land unscathed on the backside, the girls in hysterics, naturally concerned (not) for my safety. Four G and T's later we are recovering from our landing in Goa. They were the best G and T's ever. Pool, food, beach, pool, food, beach.....Goa. Stunning beaches, beautiful days, sun drenched cashew trees and cricket! It was an absolute racket, not because we lost but because that's what cricket is all about here. They are mad for it and beating the English almost caused a riot. Most of the English fans left at lunch to get sozzled but we stood by our team till the bitter end, dying in the heat waving our hands for the fours. A right craic. The people are warm, pleasant and distinctly Goan not Indian, of which they are very proud and perhaps they should be. The people in the North are nice but not forthcoming unless it is to sell you something, but perhaps it's Delhi. Delhi is hot, stressful and the driving is absolutely atrocious. There were no rules in Mumbai, there are even less here. We were driven to Agra and are barely living testament to the anything goes really, just don't hit a cow mentality, even when herds are meandering across the dual carriage way. I kid you not. Agra is the city where the Taj Mahal is and if there could be any two more contradicting sights: The Taj, serene, beautiful, a real gem and Agra: dirty, forlorn, painfully poor, with a lot of cows in the road . We stayed at the Taj View Hotel and had a view of the Taj Mahal, enraptured on sight. We got up at 5am and were the first in, the sun rising reflecting on the jewel encrusted dome. Pure elegance. As Tanya said "There are times in your life when you have to get up early, this is one of them" Very profound. We are back in Delhi, slightly disillusioned by the poverty, becoming hardened to it when we shouldn't be and to be honest quite distressed. But the fact is, India is a beautiful country with a rich plethora of cultures and religion and history mixing and living harmoniously side by side. There was a bomb in Old Delhi the day we arrived, frightening but not a true reflection of the people nor their sentiments.