Today the weather cooperated and after our breakfast of dry bread with boiled eggs we set out for Pashupatinath, a holy site on the river, where they cremate the dead, openly, where not just family, but the public, can witness.

The walk was long, dusty, and hot. The city has certainly become more lively over the last three days we've been here. More shops are opening and many more cars and bikes are on the road. Still though, I would say it is only about 10-15% active compared to when we were here three weeks ago.

Yesterday, as we walked toward Pashupatinath before the thunderstorm hit, and we turned back, we passed a large pile of rubble, where a building had stood (see photo). I commented as we passed "there's a dead body in there, or at the very least, some dead dogs". It smelled like rotting flesh. Today, we passed it again. There was a lot of commotion as we approached the site. Men in camouflage and volunteers were digging through the rubble. A hundred people stood milling about, and news crews were present. On the ground in the middle of the road was a body, wrapped up in plastic tarps. "See, I told you", I murmured to Damo, sad that my sense of smell was, in fact, so accurate.

Pashupatinath is one of the most sacred Hindu temples in Nepal. Along with Durbar Square, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but unlike Durbar Square, the temple lay mostly intact after the quake. Experts say it is because of its height, or lack of, and solid brick, as opposed to mortar, that kept it standing.

At this Hindu temple, both Hindu and Buddhists cremate the dead on large pyres. I wasn't so keen on watching, but Damo was, so we sat there for an hour and witnessed some "funerals". We saw a very young man, in his 20's, being prepared for the cremation. His family cleaned him and placed flowers and sashes on his body. They washed his feet and kissed his face. You could see he was a victim of the earthquake, as he was quite banged up on his face, and quite dirty. Then, almost as an afterthought, they emptied his pockets, removing his wallet. They took the cards and kept them, placed the money on his chest, as an offering, and put the wallet back in his pocket.

I read later that in the last seventy-two hours they have burned over 1200 bodies. The priests and employees (they employ people to stoke the fire and make sure it stays burning by adding more straw or wood) have been working around the clock in order to give the rightful holy burial to the deceased. There are also employees who take the used logs, throw them in the river to cool, then fetch them later and take them away downstream, to where, I don't know.

I didn't particularly like being there and was ready to go within a few minutes. It was fascinating, true, but I felt like an intruder. Damian said he liked it because he appreciated seeing how death was handled in a different culture. It was not frowned upon to photograph the event, so we did. I'm glad I was there, but I don't think I'll need to go again anytime. Personally, I could not get the vision of a foot sticking out of one of the big fires, on the pyre.

After I dragged him away from Pashupatinath, we continued further to Bohdnath Stupa, one of the largest stupas in the Kathmandu Valley. To me it was just another large stupa. Damian says it's very peaceful in the evenings when the town gathers and walks around it.

We were surely exhausted after walking back to the hotel. We had a massive day walking, almost six hours. That's ok because the electricity is off here today, so we have had no television. Only our book and occasional cell phone service. I tell you, being in a disaster zone can be boring at times (and dirty, as we are not allowed showers either). Woo hoo.

Tomorrow we are scheduled to fly to India where we will spend two weeks. We aren't sure of our plan yet, only we will go to Dharamsala, a hippie town with yoga centres. I'm looking forward to doing a yoga retreat! My body is in much need after our long trek.

Till then.