Today we visited Swayambhunath, known as Monkey Temple to the locals. We soon found out why. We were thieved by monkeys. More details below.

Getting to this temple was a journey along dusty, narrow, polluted streets, full of busy motorcycles, cars and young children. (Why aren't they in school?) We had to pass a cesspool river that made any enema I ever gave smell like the sweetest rose. Luckily Damian had purchased me a cute face mask which I initially balked at the sight of wearing. But when I realised not only did most locals don them, there was so much dust and smog in the air, it became a saviour. Although not even the thickest face mask could prevent my dirty boogers at the end of the day. Needless to say I was grateful for that mask walking to the temple.

Swayambhunath is a beautiful sight and well worth the 1000+ steps required to ascend. This Buddhist temple is one of the most famous pilgrimages made by devotees and I saw why. There are dozens of stupas, or holy shrines overlooking the Kathmandu Valley. The air, being high over the valley, was a respite from the stench and smog we have grown accustomed to.

The shrines were clean, colourful and had hundreds of Tibetan prayer flags hanging off the trees. People sold their homemade arts and crafts, of which I purchased many (without bargaining this time). With chanting and music in the background and incense in the air, I took in the holy sight. People from far and wide were there including locals and foreigners (even the cliche 60+ something large group complete with umbrella-hatted guide!). Mostly though I saw monkeys. Lots of them. One little butthead stole my water bottle when I sat it down to take a photo. He held it and looked at me triumphantly then hissed when I tried to get it back. We looked at each other in the eye, like a western stare down. I relented and he won. I was not scared of the monkey but instead the prospect of rabies or whatever disease they likely carried. But you know what, if bit, I might be able to monkey my way out of the monstrosity I'm hoping to conquer over the next three weeks (?anxiety?).

After sightseeing we spent the afternoon shopping (again) as our trip looms over us (48 hours!). I spent literally three hours researching whether I need a -1C or -9C or -20C sleeping bag. My indecision is reigning over my entire cerebral cortex and I'm paralysed. I bought the -1C as that's what Damian has but I came back to the hotel riddled with anxiety that I made the wrong decision. So I spent another few hours trying to research what was best and now I have read every single sleeping bag review site there is. And I think I will return it tomorrow...I really don't want to be cold.

Along with the sleeping bag, we have purchased other necessities like compasses, maps, more fleece and wool clothes, and I even bought a down vest. I am worried that my backpack will be too heavy. It is the norm here to go with a tour group and those who don't almost always get a porter. But Damo says he wants to travel independently and thinks we should to earn our way to the top...as if trekking to 18,000 feet isn't enough!
People at the stores gasped when we told them we were going solo, with no porter. Which I may add makes it difficult to rely on the dozens of trekker blogs on Everest Base Camp I've read because with their packing list, weight wasn't an issue. So maybe now you may understand why I obsess over the different sleeping bags. One weighs 600g and the other is 1200g. This adds up I tell you. Plus the liner bag, compression sack, fleece pants, fleece jacket, down jacket, trekking pants and shorts and shirts, boots, etc...this is going to be HEAVY and HARD. But you know what? I can't wait!