We've been higher than we've ever been and now it's time to come down. At 5640 meters (18,504 feet), Kala Pattar was one of the most beautiful scenes I have ever been privileged to be at. To say the views of the Himalayas surrounding you 360 degrees is breathtaking, would not even do it justice. It was serene, enchanting, and magnificent. But it was more, and words cannot describe what it was like to be up there. I look back at the photos I took and they look photoshopped.

We descended today down to 4000 meters and I thought it would be easy. I mean we were going downhill! It's not easy. Sure, it doesn't get your heart rate up to 200 like going up in this altitude, but it is taxing to the knees, feet and toes.

We left Lobuche at 7am as we heard it could take up to seven hours to get to Pangboche. It was tiring for sure, especially as we stopped only for tea, opting to have lunch once we arrived.

I trustingly (or stupidly as Damo says) and deliberately set my trekking poles down at Base Camp thinking they were useless navigating through the flat rocks and when I came back an hour later they were gone. So I walked today downhill for four hours with no poles. It hurt. Let me tell you something about trekking poles--I was a skeptic initially. I didn't want to look like a German tourist and thought they were super uncool. Maybe they are but seriously they take a load off your legs going up and down! And they give your upper body a workout too. I'm going to buy a nice pair when I get back for future hikes and I don't care how silly they look. The Germans have the right idea.

Anyway I found a pair of trekking poles, same exact ones as Damo bought in Kathmandu but these were literally triple the price, at $24USD! Outrageous. We almost started to bargain but really what is $10 to us compared to Nepali, where their average annual income is only $1500.

We finally made it to Pangboche after about six hours. Good timing too because it started snowing as soon as we got here.

I had a much needed shower...it's been EIGHT DAYS since the last. Damo opted to stay dirty another week after I told him about the shower experience. It was supposedly a gas shower but I noticed the owner climbing the roof and pouring boiling water in a tank that had a pipe leading down to the shower. Which is why after two minutes the water completely ran out. Nevertheless I washed my hair and body as it was so freaking cold (shower was outside) two minutes was all I needed. Now I am even more glad Damo and I sleep in separate sleeping bags. I tell you this trip definitely brings bonding but lacks in the romance department.

Now, decisions decisions!! Our plan is to descend to 3400 meters then start heading back up to another high altitude village, Gokyo, and from there the lookout of Gokyo Ri. At around 5300 meters, it isn't as high Kala Pattar but boasts spectacular views of the Himalayas, including Everest. This would prolong our trip another six days. Unfortunately the weather forecasts snow, snow, and more snow, making visibility poor and conditions potentially dangerous. We need to decide tomorrow or the next day what we will do. We both really want to continue but not sure if it's worth it if the forecast is accurate. Guess will see what tomorrow brings!