Saturday 21 October

Forecast: Overcast maximum 17°

We left Panicale, packing only our small cabin bag each. Having the car though allowed us to at least to take our coats and computer bag without lugging them ourselves.

Bellagio, Lake Como, is 500km from Panicale, 5.5hrs. The traffic moves swiftly with Italians making use of their autostrada and "open" speed limits. Although suggested speeds are shown along the toll roads, drivers in general, fail to adhere to them. You can understand why, many Mercedes, Ferrari, Masserati, BMW, speed by in the blink of an eye. How I would like to give my A250 sport a burl and on these roads, you could do so!

There is of course an "observed" rule, slower traffic stays in the far right lane allowing at least one lane on the drivers left, sometimes two other lanes for passing vehicles travelling at higher speed than "you". It works perfectly and we experienced no "near misses" at all. Definitely not like the road users in Australia who "hog" that middle lane, no-matter what, it just doesn't happen in Europe. Large transport lorries and motorhomes and caravans are only ever in the "slow lane".

Driving across the Apennine Mountains, the tollway cuts through the mountains by way of tunnels. Lots of them, some more than 5km in length and at least two lanes, mostly three lanes in each direction. The tunnel road system is amazing. All are well lit as you enter, giving way to lesser lights as your eyes adjust and the speed limits are 100kmh (recommended but not observed), not like 80kmh in our tunnels!! It's about driver education I'm sure.

We did make a lunch stop at an Auto Grill, periodically situated along toll ways providing the traveller easy access from the tollways with opportunity to refuel both vehicle and one-self! The food is excellent, both in quality and variety and excellent bathroom facilities.

Once we left the tollway, the lake Como was visible and the road immediately became narrow and winding, causing Phillip anxious moments. I could sense his knuckles whitening and on a few occasions he tilted towards me, hoping that would save him from the descent on his right! Just outside Bellagio township, it became a "restricted traffic zone", however we were under hotel instructions to proceed, against these signs, precariously, as many shoppers had to "hug" the shops in order to provide sufficient access for our vehicle. We parked out front of the hotel, unloaded our luggage and checked in. There we were given a map and "parking" instructions, which was located outside the zone.

All went terribly well, the views along the foreshore were already breathtaking although the "fog" hid the opposite side of the lake, despite the time being almost 4pm. We were told it is the time of year, however, it would clear. It did, that evening but not until just on sunset.

The hotel (Hotel Du Lac) is just beautiful, the view from our suite (on third floor), is over looking the ferry wharf directly out front and then the lake, with another wharf either side, about 200 metres, making three terminals in total. People are everywhere, and it's not "high" season but all are chatty and appear happy, as tourists should be.

Our suite (see pics) is really lovely, provides king bed and bathroom with marble floor and extra large shower, much appreciated. We are hoping for better water pressure here than in Panicale, and so it is.

After checkin and dropping our bags in our room, Phillip took charge of parking the car. He was gone for such a long time, I was really thankful he offered to undertake this task as it was quite a distance as it turns out, around the very large block (again passing through limited traffic zone), and took all his map reading skills, before he made the necessary "43 point turns" to manoeuvre into the tight parking spot, underground carpark, meant for "tiny" vehicles that we thought we were going to have! I was so pleased I sent him on this task. Difficult as he reported it to be, I thought how much more difficult, had I been with him!!!!!! (I'm sure he thought the same).

He finally returned to our room about 3/4hr later, desperate for "double scotch", which he didn't have however we did settle for Spritz (Lake Como style), which differs from Aldo's, who uses champagne & Aperol, here it's white wine & aperol. The waitresses stressed "you couldn't afford champagne & Aperol, would cost you €200", well, really!

As is customary, our drinks were served with bowls of potato chips, together with bowl of olives and basket of bread, olive oil too, of course. It was around 5.30pm when we returned to our rooms and since I had done all the driving (my choice), I had a shower and laid down, I woke at 9pm, in time to join Phillip, already downstairs, for bowl of spaghetti and tomatoes (so, so tasty). It's the tomatoes I tell you that make the taste.

Like, pasta is pasta, although it is al dente (which I probably over cook a tad at home) but the flavour is definitely in the tomatoes and olive oil.

I have vow to introduce a bowl of olives and bottle of olive oil, as standard, to our "island" when I get home, promoting Phillip & I to eat lots more olives and use oil on "everything", (like I did following last trip), still that is the intention.

Europeans, generally, live longer than Aussies, it's the olive oil, the olives and the abundance of vegetables, less meat than us in their diets, so that may account for their longevity?

Sunday: 22 October

It is now 4.15pm Sunday and the fog is just starting to give way to blue sky and the tops of the mountains surrounding the lake are now visible, although not the foreshore of the lake opposite, still waiting for that.

Tomorrow though, if we don't see it from this side, we will be on the other side so I will take some pictures. The problem is, our view faces west, so the sun is in front of me which makes for difficult photos. In the mornings, with the high mountains, this side is darker so not good for photos either!

In the morning, so far, it's proven too foggy but now the other side is visible as the breeze picks up, blowing away the fog and the trees lining the lake are tossing their leaves in this spring breeze. The buildings I can now see over the lake to our right are beautiful architecture buildings. I'm hoping that is Menaggio??

The many ferries come/go from the three terminals along this side of the lake all day. Large, "people carriers" (not large people) to very large, people and vehicle carriers. We are only 300km from Venice and people can take these large ferries and travel by car to the other side and make their way to Venice. We are only an hour by car from Milan and less than 10kms from Swiss border.

Sunday:

This morning we woke to light rain that was predicted, however the fog was evident and prohibited the sun from making an appearance. After a lovely breakfast provided in the hotel in a very large breakfast room situated on 1st floor with full length windows running it's entire length and view of the lake from every table, complete with an open verandah that would be wonderful in warmer/dryer months, we hit the streets.

About 30-40 cobble-stone steps takes you up from the waterfront to the exhausting array of shops above. There are about four sets of these steps along the waterfront, so one doesn't have to walk far before you are enticed to "shop". Along the lake front itself, it's mainly restaurants, with the occasional "souvenir" shops but it's up the steps where the action really takes place!

I am told, everything you would want to buy, can be bought in Bellagio, I believe it!

Leather, appears to be their specialty, all varieties, both women and men, shoes, handbags, key rings, glass cases, absolutely beautiful.

Tomorrow we take a ferry to the other side of the lake, village of Menaggio, where we will be met by our driver for the drive to Gravedona (not sure how far that is) and our cooking class with Carlotta. Really looking forward to that.

The following day, though, I hit the shops here, without Phillip, now I have my bearings!

We are here for five nights.

Monday:

We rose 7.30am, showered and had breakfast so we could be ready for our 9.20am ferry to Menaggio. In his wisdom Phillip called at the pharmacy to purchase, yet another two sets of "bands" for motion sickness. I do have two sets but I forgot to pack them, they are happily waiting in Panicale!

I say wise because this morning is beautiful sunny sky, no fog but there is a wind which is showing white caps on the lake!!!

The ferry (taking cars) left from the ferry terminal about 200 metres from the hotel and many people joined for the two stops. About four cars also drove on and despite the warning sign to leave vehicles in gear and alight from the vehicle, that rule also isn't enforced as I witnessed one driver with head phones, obviously talking on his mobile, sitting happily in his vehicle. The restraint behind his vehicle is nothing more than one single chain cable!!

The ferry stopped at the first port (Varenna) on the other side in about 15mins, then onto Menaggio which took a further 10 mins. As planned, our driver, Roberto, was waiting and he ushered us into his Mercedes "people carrier" for the 25 min drive to Gravedona and our host, Carlotta.

He phoned Carlotta about five minutes from her place of business and when Roberto pulled into the piazza, she was waiting to greet us.

What a delightful young Italian, about 26-27 years old, and together with her partner, Denis, (soon to be husband in two days!), they run this cooking class tour.

What a day (or five hours), their restaurant has been dug out of an old wine cellar, still has all the charm, with vaulted ceiling, old fire place, evidence still in the limestone walls of where the grape press was and the "run-off" for the pressed grapes. It took them two years to renovate and establish it with a commercial kitchen, two rooms tables/chairs and shelving for all the organic produce they sell.

They have over the last two years made business partners/suppliers across Italy, who have the same philosophy as they do, everything fresh and organic, grown with no commercial pesticides or anything artificial. They are rightly proud of their "operation" and are starting to reap the rewards of their hard work. Denis, resigned from his "outside employment" to become the full-time chef/cook/business partner with Carlotta. Yes, we were their last tour for three weeks as they are being married on Wednesday and hoping to take 15 days honeymoon in Sicily.

We cooked bolognese (called ragout), all fresh ingredients and angus beef, (recipe coming home with me), made our own pasta from scratch, made apple cake (for desert) and sampled local cheeses and cured meat and wines. Wonderful, wonderful hosts, very interesting people and we had the best time.

At 3.30pm Carlotta phoned Roberto who arrived at our pre-arranged pickup point for the 25 min drive back to the ferry wharf. We arrived back at our hotel about 4.20pm.

The weather had been perfect, as the pictures show, no fog, a little windy on the ferry however the "water spray" was refreshing as we elected to sit outside on the ferry (rather than the option of indoor cover).

What a day……we were weary but blissfully so. A shower, and rest before 7pm dinner and I will dream of "good food, wine and conversation" tonight, I'm sure.

We have two more days (shopping), before our visit to Lake Como ends so grateful for the opportunity to visit this northern part of Italy.

BYW: No sighting of George (Clooney), however Carlotta did show us on the map, where his villa is, no where near Bellagio, the other end of the lake, a very secluded villa with cameras everywhere, Carlotta tells us. Who cares really, we haven't had a bad coffee!!!!

Now, I hear from my daughter, Amanda, that she prints my blogs for bedtime reading by Jack, so I'm saying hello Jack, I miss you and Mum a lot and hope you are both well. I am having a lovely holiday, take a look at the map and you will see how far from Australia we are. I hope when you are bigger you will be able to do lots of travel and see wonderful different things and people too.

See you when we get home xx:)

We also say hello to Benji, missing you too and hello to Bryce and little Arthur (don't I sound like "Miss Kim"?) We are missing you all but are having a lovely time.