Wednesday 1st November 2017 All Saints Day

Celebrated as public holiday in Italy. No school, all shops except bars and restaurants are closed. Halloween has also "caught on", (31 October), however not in Panicale I am pleased to report!

We had lunch today in a village nearby Paciano (another walled village), less than five kilometres from Panicale. They too have their castle, which is now a lovely restaurant named Locanda Manfredi. We returned having lunched at this restauarant in 2014. New owners now, the delightful, enthusiastic and very welcoming Manfredi. New owner or not, the food was still exceptional.

We were invited to upstairs table, even though the restaurant has a very large terrace overlooking the valley below, olive trees surrounding, really magical. However now the weather is cool it is not comfortable dining. In summer though it would be devine.

The menu has variety to suit all tastes, all "home made on the premises, pastas and sauces" from local ingredients. Vegetables from their own garden.

We decided to share "starter", a delightful chicken liver truffle patè, served with slightly toasted bread, sprinkled with olive oil and an accompaniment of fig conserve. It was so good! (see pic), then for mains, Phillip chose tortellini filled with cheese and artichokes with tomato puree, topped with truffles. It smelt so good and P said it tasted so.

For my main, wait for this, pidgeon and olives (see pic). I have a new respect for that menacing bird, we can catch and cook them!!

Honestly, it tasted really good. Agreed, it was cooked in olive oil, the olives were small black variety, soft and very tasty but the pidgeon was good.

I thought since it was on a menu, and one is on holiday enjoying new tastes, then let's try! You had to work hard for the meat on the legs and wings, very tiny bones as you would imagine. the breast meat was a strong flavour, not unlike liver in taste but I really loved it. Side dish of roast potato and roast onion completed a wonderful lunch.

We finished with our standard, espresso macchiato (shot of expresso coffee with dollop of hot frothy milk, sugar for suit my taste).

In the morning, in the piazza we "double it up" (it's called doppio espresso machhiato), "doppio" means double.

This way I get 'hot' coffee, sometimes the hot frothy milk is served in a little jug on the side. For my taste, it requires two teaspoons of sugar, but it is really good!

A wonderful visit, still high on our list, despite new owners, well done to them! Tripadvisor reviews confirm I am not the only one sharing this option.

Thursday 2 November 2017

A beautiful autumn morning so we decided to visit Orvieto.

Under normal circumstances should be about an hour drive, however, somehow we took the scenic route, despite our gps. When we were heading to Florence on the toll road, we both knew this was not right!

Also we passed two road signs before joining A1, showing Orvieto in the opposite direction. You know, one cannot argue with gps and PS.... no points for guessing who programed the gps?

Still, we are on holidays and no appointment to keep so we exited the A1, paid that toll, did an illegal turn to change lanes and took another ticket, entered A1, now travelling in the right direction toward Rome and another 50 mins, sighted the welcomed "Orvieto" exit! Paid our toll and on we went.

Orvieto is a township, with normal shops, service station, railway station and Funicular which takes you up the very steep mountain to Oriveto village above. Medieval village, now a huge tourist attraction boasting one of the finest cathedrals. Last visit, we didn't get to see inside as it was closed (closed 1-4pm), this time we needed to ensure we were there before 1pm.

Due to our added kilometres, and after parking the car in the carpark at the base, we took the funicular up, then the very long walk, about 1.5kms up cobblestone road with shops and restaurants either side to the Cathedral standing proudly on top of the hill. We arrive 12:45, so wasted no time in entering. We weren't disappointed, it is a stunning building (see Pics).

Fifteen minutes was only just sufficient time to do "quick" look and listen to the commentary through ear piece. We would have lingered longer except security guards were diligent in their duty and wasted no time in ushering visitors out so they could lock up.

We meandered back down, making stops at many of the beautiful shops (a few purchases for proof of visit of course) and back down the cobblestone road. There at the entry to the medieval village is a Chinese restaurant (it was there last visit), run/owned by Chinese looking, Italian speaking.

We had lunch, just for a change of "taste" really. We chose spring rolls, much larger in size than those served at home. You could tell by taste they were "home made", one serving between both of us was sufficient, we had one each. Then followed with chicken & pineapple, sweet/sour pork and shrimp fried rice. Chinese tea to finish.

Asking for chop sticks and a bowl met with an anxious look from the young waitress, perhaps the daughter, 'are you sure', well, yes please! Do all tourists only use the large plate placed in front of us with knife and fork (not even a spoon)?

The meal was ok, the best flavour was definitely the spring rolls and the fried rice. Again probably because they would use olive oil for cooking. The chicken was tender but in it's self, lacked flavour, the pineapple added needed flavour enhancer. The pork, small balls (smaller than the chunky pork we are used to, because it's minced and not finely cut), very tasty but the sauce wasn't as "sweet" as I like.

Still, Phil won the day by ordering a Chinese beer. I litre of beer in a glass bottle was served and devoured. He enjoyed it very much! Guess he wasn't driving home!

We then boarded the funicular for the 3 min ride to the base and our car still in the car park without any ticket I'm pleased to say because it was only 2hour parking and we were away almost three hours, and then the drive home, the direct A1 route!

It was another tiring, but nice tiring day in this lovely region.

Friday 3 November 2017 ..... The "Lost is now Found"

Wonderful news to report!

Our friend, house-sitter and cat "whisperer", Judy Dau, sent me an email to say ...".I collected the parcel from Venice from the post office....it's here for you". Parcel from Venice, I didn't send any parcel "home" from Venice? My parcel was sent direct to my son!! After processing I sent an email back asking her to open the parcel....could it be??? Oh, yes it was! My phone was back home. My trust in Venetians affirmed. My faith in Italy poste restored.

There was no note in the parcel so I am assuming it did not come from the "Carabinieri"(police) who most certainly would have "documents" enclosed!!

We assume it was found by the lady in the post office. Perhaps it fell behind the counter, and she knew we were enquiring about it and she had our home address (because of the paperwork in sending the parcel to Belligen).

I am one happy Italian tourist!!! I will contact Optus on my return and thankfully I do not have to replace it. What a happy ending yes???

Dinner: Lillotatini Ristorante, Panicale

We dined locally (as we had previously). Same owners, three years ago their son was living in Australia (Sydney, Melbourne and Perth), studied chef and decided to return home! He stayed helping in his "mum/dad's" restaurant until two years ago when he married and with his new wife moved to Amsterdam and opened his own restaurant, same name.

The menu here too is extensive and they pride themselves on local "everything".

Here I saw "baked eel with spinach" . I have never eaten eel so here I go again!

Starters: For me, I couldn't go past, the "chestnut flour crepes with ricotta and puree duck sauce". (Almost this time 2014 we were here for Chestnut festival),so I was anxious to try. It was so, so good.

Phil, had, yellow "pumpkin and porcini mushroom soup". Believe me, the best soup I think I have ever had (stealing a spoon full or two!). Seriously good. You actually wouldn't imagine two strong flavours would go together, or I didn't. I think the yellow pumpkin must be a "lighter" flavoured pumpkin. The mushroom certainly was dominant.

Mains: I had baked eel. I wouldn't rave about it. I think probably the saving grace for eel, for my taste, was it was baked in olive oil, topped with onion and spinach so the flavours combined was tasty. Still it's another tick for food never previously eaten.

Phil's main was: Tortellini, stuffed with cheese and coated in truffle and butter sauce. Oh, yes, this was fantastic and seems to be his "signature dish"!!

We finished with our "standard" espresso macchiato, look at the picture. The cutest espresso cups with tops! Wonderful coffee!

By the way, rain is falling. All day Friday and overnight. Very welcomed.