Aaaahhhhh. (Feel free to interpret that as a jubilant song of exultation or as a simple sigh of content. both apply) We've just experienced one of the eight wonders of the modern world, and India's crown jewel.

Yes, I mean eight. It's definitely eight (not seven).

No, I'm not talking about the Taj Mahal. Nothing so ostentatious (by the way, I hold the right to retract that comment once I've actually seen the Taj).

I'm talking about Tea! Or more specifically Darjeeling Tea -- the real thing. None of this imposter stuff that's apparently been infiltrating its way into our homes... Worse, into our tea pots!

We've just spent a wonderful morning having a private factory tour and tea tasting at Happy Valley, one of Darjeeling's more exclusive tea estates. So exclusive, in fact, that the only place in the UK where you can buy their tea -- one of only four suppliers is the world -- is Harrods. Box of tea in hand, we felt quite privileged as we strolled back through their tea gardens, passed ladies out picking these auspicious little leaves.

Next stop, the Darjeeling Post Office. The fun never ends! Seriously the most fascinating outing to a post office I've ever had. After parting with our little box of tea, we watched it get lovingly sown into a meticulously neat little cloth parcel, the seams then adorned with wax! I'm not kidding: he took about an hour to hand stich our package before lighting a candle and producing a little pack of red wax sticks, complete with brass seal.

Now, while the tea was amazing, and the emerald-green tea plantations that surround the town were idyllic, Darjeeling itself didn't quite live up our preconceptions of a hill station built by colonial tea planters. And it seem everyone is in agreement, its let itself go. Since we've left, we keep being asked (with that knowing look): "so, what did you think of Darjeeling?"

It's such a shame that the colonial charm has started to fade. The streets are now clogged with traffic; the once great houses, such as the heritage Windamere Hotel, have been neglected; and the art of afternoon tea has clearly been forgotten.

But there is still hope! The idealistic British-colonial tea planter's lifestyle still exists (at a price). You just need to drive an hour and a half down to the heavenly little plantation retreat that is the Glenburn Tea Estate. It took my breath away (but more about that in my next blog!). And if you're looking for a still peaceful hill station, just cross over into Sikkim -- it's a much more authentic experience.