I know what you're going to say: "what, more temples!?". You'd think we'd have had enough of them by now; that the lure of more monkeys couldn't possibly interest me...

Yeaterday I would have agreed with you but this relatively off-the-beaten-track little town really was an intriguing place to spend some time. And that's before you considered the religious significance of the place -- birthplace of Rama, one of Hinduism's seven holiest cities, and site of modern India's most controversial religious disputes (fascinating, by the way*).

Ayodya offered us possible the most 'real' Indian experience we've had so far.

Hanumangarhi

Hidden amid the busy morning Bazar, we found an ornately carved gateway, which admit us to this little oasis sheltering behind fortress-like outer walls.

We were welcomed like honoured guests. Attendants encouraged us to make a wish/ seek the special blessings of Lord Hanuman at the central idol, while they painted red bindis on our foreheads, draped flower garlands round our necks and thrust handfuls of temple-blessed food upon us. Despite the language barrier they were clearly tripping-over-themselves to make sure we felt included.

Added to by the usual stir we cause with legitimate temple-goers, ending up in a few family photos, this was a very inclusive experience.

Dashrath Bhavan

We then found our way to a quieter temple (well, it was quiet until breakfast time), approached through a colourful entranceway. The atmosphere was peaceful with musicians playing and orange clad sadhus reading scripture under a canopy of fluttering, metallic bunting.

Again we were beckoned forward. After a chat and a cup of chai tea we were invited back for breakfast! The gesture really spoke volumes of the Indian sense of hospitality... Even if to accept was a step too far for us in regards to ignoring food safety.

Ram Janam Bhumi

We ended our morning with the highly contentious temple that marks the birthplace of Rama. Security here is staggering!

We first had to show our passports, then were asked to leave all our belongings (apart from our passports and money) behind. We were then searched at four separate security checkpoints -- the page from Lonely Planet which I had in my pocket eliciting a fair amount of interest/suspicion -- before being accompanied by a member of the Indian Secret Service to a caged corridor.

A little overkill, perhaps*?!

I can't decide whether we were being treated as VIPs, being the ONLY westerners in town, or, being westerners, we were under observation... He did after all casually check which airport we'd flown into.

Only filled with a small amount of doubt, we were herded single-file through the cage, under the watchful gaze of an excessive number (in my opinion) of armed military. After another few tense minutes -- intensified by having to pass what looked distinctly like a human cattle-pen (the holding area for visitors on busier days) -- we were lead to a spot 20m away from a makeshift tent of a shrine, which marks Rama's birthplace.

Although it may not look much, it's clearly a site of extreme religious importance but, for the more sheltered visitor, reaching it has the potential to be a rather frightening experience.

N.B an apology to our readers, David forgot the camera today, so no photos! (except those I borrowed from the web) ... Although this probably contributed to the 'realness' of our experience. So we can't be too cross with him ;)

*History Lesson, courtesy of Lonely Planet:
Ayodya became tragically synonymous with Hindu extremism in 1992, when rioting Hindus tore down the Babri Masjid, a mosque built by the Mughals in the 15th century, which Hindus claimed stood on the sight of an earlier Rama temple, marking Lord Rama's birthplace. Hindus built Ram Janam Bhumi in its place. Tit-for-tat reprisals soon followed, includingeactionary riots across the country that lead to more than 2000 deaths, the problem eventually reached the High Court. Archaeological investigations were carried out at the site and, in September 2010, the Allahabad High Court rules that the site should be split equally between three religious groups; two Hindu, one Muslim. The Muslim group appealed parts of the ruling but the Supreme Court of India ruled in favour of the Allahabad ruling in 2011. Since the verdict things have remained relatively calm. Meanwhile, security around Ram Janam Bhumi remains relatively tight.