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We arrived in Quito on the Sunday afternoon and little was open but I had so much to do!!!
When we arrived we bumped into the couple who had left the trip in Banos as they were staying at the hostel next door. They gave me a great tip for last minute Galapagos trips, so headed off to the Internet cafe to do some research on that and out to see if any book stores were open to get a Central America Lonely Planet.
We were staying in New Town in the Mariscal area - nicknamed 'Gringolandia'!
The Lonely Planets 'Danger & Annoyances' section warned to be wary on Sundays when the area is quiet and it's a 'dodgy time' to wander the area.
I had been taking the advice with a grain of salt as it was making me paranoid! This time I ignored it as had too much to do! Turns out they were right though!
I didn't walk far before I realised there were lots of nutters wandering the street! They were yelling out and talking to passers-by. Cops were around though and saw them grab one guy off the street and start harassing him.
It was also a bit scarier too as there's a lot more people of African decent here ... I dont mean to be racist but they're a lot bigger & scarier then the typical shorty Latino shorty which you feel you have much more of a chance at fighting off!
I kept walking quickly, (I swear that works as dont seem to bother you when youre on a mission!), to check out what I needed to and headed back.
Just after I got buzzed back into our hostel & was shutting the gate, and a blonde white fella came up to me from the street.
He asked if I spoke English? When I replied I did, he asked whether I had any work for him? He had a south African accent, looked a bit shabbily dressed and had sores on his lips and forehead. Hmm!
I locked the gate and continued to talk to him through the fence. I told him no, I'm just a tourist. He said he prefers to ask for work & not just money ...
He said don't trust anyone here, they seem honest but they'll rip you off.nHe told me he'd been staying at a backpackers across the street and had befriended them. He then came back one night and they beat him up, took his bag & left him with a small bag & $50. He said he's now been there a year and a half and can't get home.
I ask him why not? Too expensive he replies and hard to earn that money.
Don't trust the police either he says, they're the ones that beat me up to get the scabs on his face ... He repeats himself often, loses trains of thought and can't focus.
I take what he tells me with a grain of salt thinking he's probably actually a HIV infected ferral junky, but give him the change in my pocket, $2.10 and wish him well saying I hope that will help with his endeavors.
He profusely thanks me & tells me I'm a very good person and that here that will go real far!
I go for dinner with my group after at another funky westernised restaurant, Boca del Lobo (mouth of the wolf). Good food but pricey for Ecuador, spending about $30 on a 3 course meal & cocktail ... I hope the South African got more for his $2.10!
I tell the couple who have been there a few days over dinner about my encounter & they tell me they've also met him & he's hit them up for money twice before and also become quite agitated when talking to them.
After dinner a few of us went for drinks at their hostel as it was the guy who was running it, Bialos, birthday.
We had a fun night with him his Columbian friend, and another kiwi couple. The boys were trying to teach us girls to dance salsa with little success - always love trying though even though generally I feel pretty unco!
The next day I went to the bookstore just after it opened and got a Central America Lonely Planet ... Didnt realise til later the brand new looking book was actually the November 2007 edition!!!
I went to the Magic Bean for breakfast & started researching & drafting a Central America itinerary... Feeling pretty good about that now and so looking forward to some down time to relax ... The Tucan trip has been go go go!
Then went to the travel agency and after researching their recommendations I booked a Galapagos trip. I chose 7 nights / 8 day on the Floreana. A tourist class boat so not the cheapest, but not the best either. Their website had the price for $2075 but they offered it for $1620 when I walked in. I'm guessing this price is at least half the normal price as all tours I looked at in the brochures at home were at least $3500!!! It was Monday and the boat left Thursday, perfect timing as was the day after the tour ended. Also had them throw in a free night as their affiliated hostel with breakfast and the transfer to the airport!
That afternoon we went to Otovalo, north of Quito.
I had a quick look around the markets before they shut, dinner with the group and bed.
Another shop around in the morning, although we were a bit disappointed as had heard a lot about the markets and thought they'd be bigger and sound like they are on weekends.
We caught a local bus to Cotopatchi and shopped for leather goods ... Good prices by nothing much grabbed me except a wallet.
We then caught cabs out to the volcanic crater lake where we took a boat ride around it to see the bubbles rising up as fumes still escape from underground ... Not all that exciting but the others seemed to like it?!
We took the taxis all the way back to Otovalo, then a local bus back to Quito.
It was the final night with the group and also one of the girls birthdays so we had a big one!
Dinner first at a restaurant where I finally tried 'cuy' (guinea pig!). It was actually really tasty, as always a bit like chicken but gagged every time I looked at it as they served it whole!
We headed off to a few bars after making the most of the 2-4-1 cocktails.
Suddenly at midnight they stopped serving though ... None of us knew that no alcohol is allowed to be served after midnight!
Every where was the same, so we headed for the hostel next to our hotel again....He had nothing to drink so we went for a wander to see if a bottle store was open ...
The 'Dangers & Annoyances' section was right again ... I spotted 2 people standing on corners, one with a baseball bat and another with a long stick ... I checked with our tour leader and they weren't looking for trouble but were waiting for it, as apparently things often get rough when the bars shut ... This the reason for the midnight cut off.
We couldn't find anywhere to get booze nearby so hopped in a taxi and asked the driver... He took us to a nearby area and pointed to a metal roller door. We knocked and eventually the person answered supplying us with 3 bottles of booze, soft drink & cigarettes.
We took it all back to the hostel and drank lots & lots & lots!
Woke up next day with an evil tequila hangover ... Very sick and did not crawl out of bed til about 11am and only cause I had to - checkout was midday!
I packed my stuff & forced myself to get the cab to the parcel post office. That was hell! Thirsty, tired & nauseous I spent over an hour trying to organise for 10kg of my stuff to be sent home. (Hey I've been accumulating for 4 months & also my cold weather gear & sleeping bag!).
I waited ages to be served ... No one pushed in for a change! (Not sure if I've mentioned previously but I'll be lining up and people just push in front of me! I dont bother saying anything ... My Spanish isn't good enough too and then sometimes wonder if they have a reason to be, like they were there before me or something?!) When I got to the counter the lady was a gringo hater & very abrupt with me and spoke no english.
She made me wait for ages, then sent me out to get a box for my items but another nice lady found one for me out the back. She then made me wait some more.
After waiting a bit she had me crawling around on my hands & knees trying to cut it down to size ...
Then told me I had to get tape that I couldn't use theirs ... As I was heading out the door the nice lady grabbed me and said she'd help ... She didn't speak English either but was very helpful and asked at about 10 stores for me until we finally found one that sold tape! I was so appreciative as didn't know the word for tape and was about to give up on the whole idea as all I wanted to do was lie down and die! (Why do I get such bad hangovers when I saw the other girls who had been drinking with me & they were fine!!!).
Anyway back to the post office ... So I taped up the box.
Waited some more ...
Put the address details on an A4 sheet the way she pointed out in an example.
Waited some more ...
Filled out 2 forms which I assumed were for customs - paid my $146 and then was finally on my way.
Caught cab to travel agency for next mission - paying remainder of money for trip.
That went quick & easy and really liked the agency - just hope they're legit and the trip exists!!!
Next mission was flight to Costa Rica ... Went back to hotel to do some research, oh and be ill!!! Damn you evil hangovers!!!
Cheapest had 2 x 8 hour stop overs .. one in Bogota & a midnight one in Panama ... That was $400.
The next cheapest was direct for $605! Doing things last minute isn't cheap when it comes to airfares!!! Unavoidable though as didn't know when I would be back from Galapagos ...
I went to a travel agent and booked the direct flight for $620 cash (always a fee for using credit here from 3-6%)... Didn't bother trying to book online myself as they often don't except foreign cards.
Next mission was to find sunglasses ... Completed successfully after bumping into a guy on the street selling them from a board. This is now about my 6th & 7th pair ... Bought 2 as always break them at worst time & didn't want to go without in the Galapagos!
Final mission ... Went back to hotel and caught cab to Natural Life Hostel. The fare was $2 but the driver had no change for a $5 ... (Seriously it is crazy here with change - no one has it and then they end up losing business?!). Too hungover to work it out so told him don't worry keep it! Probably made his day as he only drove me 4 blocks!
I was very pleased to find I wasn't in a dorm but they gave me a small single room with ensuite. The staff didn't speak English but were a very welcoming and accommodating older couple.
I finally had a chance to relax and had a quick nap then had to drag myself to the final final dinner with my group.
A couple had left that day but still most of us were there - it was our one last night before we all headed off the following day (some to Columbia, others Galapagos).
I finally managed to keep food and water down, and perked up just as we were leaving and said my farewells! It was very sad & strange after 65 days with these people to say farewell!!!
I packed that night for Galapagos and woke early for my tasty included breakfast. The transfer arrived as promised and the hostel couple waved me off!
After a little confusion as to which counters I had to go to at the airport (the travel agent had explained it the previous day but well feeling the way I did I didn't remember much!), I got my Ingala Galapagos Tourist Card, had my luggage scanned to ensure I wasnt taking any no no's to Galapagos, checked in and waited in the departure lounge.
Lots of westerners waiting with me and plenty of oldies also headed for Galapagos!
I used the free wifi to firm up hostels for my return to Quito, booked a night in San Jose & 4 nights in a very cool sounding place in Montezuma - I was thankful the plane had a slight delay so I had time to do this!
Hopped on the flight feeling better about the travel agent I'd booked with as at least the first part was legit!
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