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Wow what a cool place Montezuma was! I can only describe it as my Costa Rican mini Byron - Byron before it got too popular!
May is low season, so crowds were low as it is supposed to be the rainy season. The weather was great though - similar to Brisbane summer with storm clouds & thunder rolling in most afternoons, threatening rain but not always delivering!
I stayed at a place called Luna Llena & splashed out on a private room for my 5 night beach retreat. Very basic but comfortable - shared bathroom for $25 USD per night. A bit of a steep walk up from town to get there but definitely need the exercise, and means the location was on the hill amongst the trees, with an ocean view if you peak through those trees.
The website promised monkeys on your verandah which unfortunately didnt happen. I only saw one in the trees but heard lots ... They're 'howler monkeys' so they make this super scary sounding growl that sounds positively evil!!! Never see the b*****s though except one quick glimpse the first day but didn't pay much attention thinking there would be plenty more!!!
The staff at the hotel were really great - I especially liked Jean who got me organised the day I arrived with yoga times at the nearby resorts and organised me a surf lesson with their preferred school, Montezuma Surf.
I had her drawing on a map so I could find things but realised very quickly that the town is really only 3 streets tops ... Or as we would describe it back home ... A 2 pub town!
Day 1 -
The first night I went for a wander down to the beach & checked out where my yoga class was the next morning at Ylang Ylang Reaort - a beautiful spot but a good 15 minute walk along the beach from town.
I stocked up on groceries on my way back so I didn't have to buy breakfast & lunches.
I then went out for dinner at El Sano Bananos, as every night they screen movies and have been hanging for months now to just chill out and watch a flick! The movie was the 'Kings Speech', not too bad but was hoping for something a little more entertaining!
Day 2 -
I was up early for breakfast, then down to yoga at Ylang Ylang Resort.
The pavilion they hold the yoga in is gorgeous, looking out onto the ocean and used to be the resort owners home.
Diane was taking the class and although normally I prefer power yoga, I really enjoyed her restorative class to work through the last 4 months aches & pains!
She also did a lot of visualization work with the chakras & used aromatherapy to compliment that...
At $12 for an hour and a half I left feeling pretty damn good and glad I didn't fork out the minimum $1200 for a yoga retreat!
I'd packed a day bag to leave straight from the resort on a hike further north to a waterfall that runs into the ocean - it was 2 hours each way but I was happy to get the exercise and take in the beautiful surrounds.
The walk was tough in spots as the trail was not marked well and the rocky points were difficult to walk over.
On some beaches there was also a lot of debris - not just driftwood but all kinds of rubbish that is washed down the rivers to the beaches from San Jose. It was really disappointing to see and especially when the country prides itself on being Eco friendly :-(
I finally made it to the water fall and took the 2 hours it said. It wasn't spectacular as I imagined but the walk there was amazing. The whole way the beaches were gorgeous with rainforest & coconut palms meeting the beach, and most of the time there was absolutely no one around!
The walk back was quicker thankfully, but snapped a thong! My beautiful trusty Rio Havianas broken and me walking back with one thong on & having very sore feet from the rocks by the end of it!
Being a small town they were charging a premium for Havianas - about $26 which is similar to home I think! I paid under $10 in Rio and found a cheap copy brand for $8 to replace them.
When I got back to the hotel I was amazed that although I was walking in the heat of the day, I didn't get burnt! Not like home or South America where you're under the hole in the ozone layer ...
I took myself out for dinner that night to Ylang Ylang Resort. It was such a beautiful & romantic setting - just me and my mojito! Perhaps I should have brought Bruce?
Food was delicious but prices like home.
It was pitch black as I walked back along the beach, alone with my head torch (Cath would be proud of me as usually I pay her out for wearing one when we camp!).
I saw a bonfire on the beach up further so avoided it as didn't want to get harassed being alone ...
Day 3 -
Chris from the surf school met me at the hotel the next morning for my $40 lesson. He apologised for being late but said the upside was I would be surfing with 4 college boys from Florida! (one being his god son Skyler).
Yay and damn they were all cute too!!!
Seems they were all a bit hung over and hard to get started this morning after their bonfire on the beach, 'Didnt the hotel staff tell you about it?' Chris says.
Damn it! Thats what I get for playing it safe and avoiding the bonfire and NO the hotel staff didn't tell me!!!
So after a long walk along the beach, thankfully with the college boys carrying the 4 boards (and after picking up another couple along the way), we finally made it to Playa Grande for the lesson.
The college boys took 2 of the boards and did their own thing but myself and the couple (Ellen & Greg) stuck with Chris.
I felt like I got a lot out of the lesson as he went over a lot of the basics I'd previously not known or understood.
He had me on an 8'2 fun board and recommended I keep to something similar. (note to self ...)
The waves were perfect so within a couple of minutes he also had me standing - woohoo!!!
I had a great time and we were out for about 4.5 hours total from the time we left & returned to the hotel.
Unfortunately the sun had not been so kind so ended up red faced :-(
I had a relax around the hotel in the afternoon then headed to the water fall closer to town - it was a lot rockier than I expected but met a local, Danny, along the way who showed me a path through the bushes rather then crawling over the rocks.
Despite or maybe in spite of Dannys encouragements to join him for a swim, I declined as didn't want to leave my bag lying around.
I took photos instead and managed to stand on a very nasty thorn that went all the way through my thong and into my foot and made walking back even more painful!!! Yeow!!!
That night I went for dinner again at El Sano Banano and watched 'Tangled'. It was an animated Disney movie about Rapunzel and loved it! It was so cute & funny!!!
Day 4 -
The next morning I went to yoga at Los Mangoes. Their was great reviews on Trip Advisor but the usual instructor was only participating in the class and Silvia took it instead.
Normally I would have loved the class - a lot of power moves and tricky postures, but being so out of practice I was over it and losing confidence as just don't have the muscle strength to do what I used to be able to :-(
Afterwards I went for a strawberry soy smoothie (love the hippy town and having access again to all that goes with that!), to cheer myself up!
I'd booked in with Chris (my sirf instructor) for his 'Sunset Safari' in the afternoon.
Montezuma is on the east coast of the Nicoya Peninsula and we were heading for Mal Pais/Santa Theresa only 30 minutes away on the west coast. We were also joined by Canadian, Scott who was there for a week to do a surf camp with Chris - this was his 2nd visit to Montezuma having come with his girlfriend 6 weeks earlier.
The road was very rough and I now see why everyone has 4WDs!
There was a lot of farmland in between the 2 coasts but not much else. Santa Theresa was more built up than Montezuma but spread out so not too pretty. The beaches were gorgeous though and Chris decided on one further to the north that was very secluded.
The waves were a lot choppier then Playa Grande and didn't even out towards sunset like Chris had hoped.
My surfing seemed to have gotten worse then the previous day which was frustrating!
I tried not to let it bother me too much though as generally do take a long time to get things! I will just have to keep practicing!
It's been so good to have a go here though as noone about to be embarrassed in front of, and noone else on the waves so no surf rage!
Chris had a screwdriver (vodka, oj, lime) waiting for me when I finished in the surf. He'd also made friends with some other people on the beach who were doing a surf camp with another school, so we chatted with them.
I could certainly learn a lot from Chris as he is so unreserved and approaches everyone to say hi and have a chat! He's originally from Florida but has been living here for about 6 years and knows everyone! We had some great deep convos going that day which were very interesting - he's a very open minded guy, claims to be on a 'spiritual path' and trying to be a 'superior man'.
I liked him (platonically people!) and really enjoyed some convo that was less superficial.
The sunset was incredible and a great way to spend an afternoon - even if I was both burnt and bruised after my lesson! It was so much fun and worth it!
I cooked my own dinner that night and chatted with Scott as as he was also staying at my hotel.
Day 5 -
I went to yoga at Ylang Ylang again in the morning and once again enjoyed Diannes less athletic class!
Afterwards I got a 4WD taxi to Cabo Blanco National Park ($12 one way and he wouldn't budge!).
I intended to do the trail that is 4 hours return to the beach & back, but after an hour I was sweating like a pig, had only just seen my first wild life, so decided to stop and take a breather and see I'd if it would come to me!
It didn't but as usual could hear it close by ... I started to head back and immediately saw some racoon type animals on the path - a mum with 4 adorable babies, they were soooooo cute!
I tried to take pics but no good without flash and didn't want to startle them!
When they realised I was there they ran off.
I didnt see anything else except lizards and birds. I'm now wondering if perhaps I should have gone to Manuel Antonio but at least in Cabo Blanco there were no crowds - I only saw 6 people!
I also turned back early as wanted to go to the Rainsong Sanctuary... I'd looked into volunteering there but reviews said the owner was only in it for the money and was a drunk.
The sanctuary was a couple of km walk from the national park - I arrived in visiting hours but no one was around?!
I looked at all the animals and the cages were clean and had food in them - they were very barren though with concrete and no foliage.
Some of these animals had signs saying they could never be released back into the wild because of one reason or another and this is all they'd have for the rest of their lives :-(
I left again without seeing anyone and walked into Cabuya...
I took pics of the hibiscus as I went - there is so many here and some really cool varieties that Ive never seen before.
I found Cemetary Island which I should have been able to walk to as it was low tide, but my feet were killing me still !!! It's just a couple of graves on it anyway - how exciting could it be?!
I went to find the bus stop in Cabuya and ran into my taxi driver from the morning instead. I hopped in to avoid the hour wait for the bus and was glad I did as the air conditioning was a welcome relief!
That night at the hotel we had a BBQ and drinks.
As I was getting ready to head up to the common area, the neighbour popped his head in my door to introduce himself. Juan Luis was his name and he said he came to tell me that i was beautiful and would i have a drink with him later! God I'm gonna miss the flattery from these Latinos when I go home!
I told him sure why not! How about he comes & joins us at the BBQ? He said he'd come later after he finished working (at the hotel next door) and gave me more compliments as he left!
Chris, Scott and Jean were all at the BBQ and also another lady who was working the desk at the hotel, Inga.
Juan Luis did show up just as we were headed down to Chicos Bar in town, to check out Reggae night. I think he might have thought I was with Scott though as he didn't chat to me again - but was so keen earlier?
I had a dance with Scott but not really my kind of dancing music. I didn't want to drink more as Im really starting to feel like Im getting over that - can you believe it?!
There were about 100 people out so apparently quiet compared to a Saturday night when more locals are out or if its high season.
A few fire twirlers had gathered outside so it was cool to watch them and another reason I'm thinking this place is my mini Costa Rican Byron Bay!
I headed off about midnight as next morning I had to get the early bus. I left just after a strange old man dressed as a shepherd, led 3 goats on leads with the dog following from the beach side of the club across the dance floor and out through the front door!
I tell you there are some trippy nutters here!!! (Just like Byron!)
I ended up following them up the street on my way home and him and his mates were having a laugh about it ...
Day 6 -
Last day I was early after not sleeping well.
I walked down to town with Scott & said goodbye.
Waiting at the bus stop, Chris drove by and stopped to say goodbye.
Bus finally boarded 30 minutes late and said hi to my hotels night guard (Ansil?) who was also getting on the bus the same time as me.
An hour and a half later we arrived at Parquera and had a one hour wait for the ferry.
The ferry which is supposed to take an hour to Punta Arenas took 1.5 hours.
Still have to get to the bus station then another 3.5 hour bus to Monteverde!
A very big day and all because the 4.5 hour shuttle I wanted to get doesn't go with less then 2 people - bummer!!!
So anyway during my 5 nights in Montezuma I've decided I want to be a hippy!
Ok maybe not a hard core one but as much as I can stand!
I want more yoga, more surfing, more organic raw foods, more free flowing clothes and hanging with more open minded alternative people - just like I used to do as a teenager but then stopped and felt like I needed to be all sensible and go more corporate?!
Anyway let's wait and see if this pans out!!!
Hey I even threw out the hairdryer! (Okay so it was mostly because it was sparking when I plugged it in after melting in some socket in Ecuador ... Whatever!)
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