Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
I arrived in San Ignacio early having caught the 5am bus from Flores to the Guatemalan border, then a $15 cab from there to town.
I'd farewelled the 6 kiwis and 4 Poms at the border as they were headed with the bus onto Belize City, but may see some of them again in Caye Culker!
It was a relief to be in a country where they speak english and to be able to communicate freely!
I asked the driver for a recommendation as to where to stay and ended up at J&R Guesthouse.
The owners, John & Rosa were very friendly and welcoming on arrival - all single rooms were full so they offered a double with private bathroom and tv for a discounted rate - $35 Belize dollars per night (approx $18 AUD).
A lot more exxy then I've paid just recently but after spending the previous afternoon ill and needing some rest - I decided I was worth it!
I'd arrived at 8am so they offered me some breakfast (after also giving me some pills for my sore tummy after I told them I wasn't well). I'd already managed to keep down the cold pancake I'd eaten half an hour before so pulled out my tube of vegemite and gave that on some bread a go.
While I ate I met fellow Aussies from Sydney, Caroline, Tom and Benny.
They were doing the Actun Tunichil Muknal cave tour that I'd stopped in San Ignacio to do, and had I not been still recovering I could have joined them!
They were met at the guest house by the tour operator, Sergio, and tour guide, Carlos - so I'd signed up for another nights accommodation and the next days tour before I even finished breakfast!
Everyone left and I went for a lie down, getting up at 2pm!
John had offered to drive me up to nearby ruins on the hill, Cahal Pech, so I went into town and had something to eat then had him drive me up.
The ruins were not as grand as Tikal but it felt very special to be the only one exploring them, to be high on the hill away from the heat of town, and to hear the wind rustling through the trees and all around me.
The only other people around were what looked like archaeologists, students and volunteers - painstakingly working to uncover another temple from under a mound of forest.
I walked back into town stopping by San Ignacio Resort, but unfortunately missed the last tour of the day to see the Iguana Conservation Centre.
Instead I enjoyed my first tv viewing for a while! Over 100 channels of viewing pleasure and at least 60 in English - much better than the one channel you get in South American countries that plays one court room / police or medical drama after another - yuk!
I ended up napping again and then went down to use the Internet since their was none at the guest house.
I lost a couple of hours uploading photos there and getting myself set up on a house sitting website (I've rented my unit out to February next year so need somewhere to live!).
I then went to find some takeaway dinner (dreaming of more TV down time!) and ran into the Aussies on my way. They gave me a debriefing of the days trip and ended up joining them for a Sri Lankan curry dinner.
We got home at a reasonable hour, another good sleep and I was up early and feeling good for my tour.
No sight of the previous Aussies when I emerged for brekky but met 2 more! Another couple from Sydney who'd been travelling since September last year!
I chatted to them over breakfast until Sergio arrived, and then Carlos shortly after.
I joined Carlos out in his 4WD and he introduced the 4 others in the car - his cousins from both Belize and Florida who were joining us on the tour.
We also picked up another mother and daughter, Erin and 'Mum', both teachers from Minneapolis.
I ended up clicking with them quite well and the hour or so ride to the caves went very quickly.
We first arrived at a carpark then walked another 30+ minutes to the cave entrance.
There we were kitted out with our helmets and lights and left all else but cameras here before entering the cave.
Carlos likes to take his time to ensure we're one of the last groups entering the cave and therefore get to have your time in their alone and not among crowds.
We saw many exiting but did not come across too many along the way.
As soon as you enter you get wet as the entry is where the creek flows from. The whole time until you climb into the upper cavern, you're in the water at varying depths - at some points where you can't even touch the floor of the cave!
It's all a lot of fun though and exciting! Especially the points where you have to squeeze through rock crevices to get into the next section!
There was also lots of gorgeous geological formations along the way - lots of limestone, stalactites, and some crystalisation.
When you get to the upper cavern you remove your shoes (in my case my fake crocs I bought for canyoning that have been so useful ever since!), and put on socks instead.
The idea of this is to assist in keeping the floor of the cavern in good condition and that you're likely to be more careful where you walk with socks on.
I wasn't exactly sure what to expect at this point. Carlos had been speaking very passionately about this section and how lucky we are to be viewing it as it really should be a protected site like Pompeii.
We climbed up the rocks and into a chamber. A path had been outlined with red tape to ensure you did not step on the Mayan artifacts to either side of it. Each side had lots visible that studies have dated from 500-750AD.
It's thought the Mayans came here for religious purposes and to make offerings to the gods of the 7 underworlds. That's a long way to go (1/2 mile underground) with just a fire torch, and some of the pots were quite large, so would have been quite difficult to get into the cave.
Further in we started to see skeletal remains and Carlos took some pretty freaky pictures of them for us.
From here it was back down again, going a slightly different way then the one we came in.
It was a fun day and Carlos was a great guide! He's also apparently been the guide to lead Discovery Channel and National Geographic through the caves, and will also take the 'Ghost Hunter' team through in a months time.
I stupidly ate my burrito when we got out and not sure if it was the chicken or chilli but ended up not well again that night - sleeping most of the night then going out for an ice cream run convinced that would make my belly feel better :-)
There's a lot of African decendants in Belize and now they speak English I can understand exactly what they're yelling out to me!!! One again I try not to get too uptight about it and just laugh it off ...
There was one fella in town though who was being a bit too forward. I'd said hello and chatted to him the day before but tried to just say hi and walk on by as wasnt feeling well - he had his mates with him tonight sobwas probably showing off ... He grabbed my hands and tried to drag me back to where he was talking to his friends ... I got the s***s and pulled myself away and he's calling after me, 'I don't like your attitude tonight Ms Brazil' (I was wearing my Brazil shirt ...).
It made me a little nervous but no worse then the s*** you cop in the valley mall.
I had a couple of blocks to walk to the guest house so just stayed cautious to make sure he didn't follow ... Lots more dark boys sitting round in cars & walking by saying hello to me and giving me compliments as I went!
I can't stay in my hostel room and wrap myself up in cotton wool, it's not practical to get a cab the 2 blocks to the main street - so what's a girl to do?!
Next morning I was feeling half okay again and headed to the Iguana Conservation Centre.
I was the only one on the tour so got the Iguanas all to myself and my personal photographer!
The babies especially were so cute as they're bright green!
My guide kept putting them all over me but they kept sliding off as I was wearing a boob tube!
We chatted afterwards and I learnt a little about his life in Belize - he's 25, works 6 days a week for approx $20 belize a day and on his 1 day off plays professional soccer where he gets paid approx. $250 US!
He's travelled all over central America with football and otherwise but refuses to go to the US even though family want him to visit there and he's even been offered scholarships.
We talk about how so many people think America is so fantastic and how so many of his friends want to move their but he loves his country and is very proud.
He gives me some tips on the cayes and recommends San Pedro over Caye Caulker as there's more to do. (It's also supposed to be more exxy!!!).
He tells me he hates Belize City and can't sleep at night when he's there or fear of someone breaking in to where he's staying! You know its bad when even the locals feel like that!!!
He says he gets out of the place as soon as he can and only goes if he has to!
I'm enjoying the conversation with a local but drag myself away as have a bus to catch to Belize City then a boat to the beautiful Caribbean!!!!
- comments