I have ended up in cinque terra once more. Levanto. And am very happy to be here. Last night was a long night for me. The room I got on the lake turned out to be the hottest room in the northern hemisphere. So I opened the window to let a cool breeze from the lake in. Turned out it was a bad idea because all the mosquitoes in Italy live outside that room. At dusk I got a swarm of he b*****s in the room and they stayed thee until the morning strafing me. In the morning there was little bloody patches on the walls, the bed and me where the hungry had fallen. Keen to check out I had my bowl of warm cornflakes with warm milk and headed towards the cold man to square the bill. Cash only! Should have known. Rookie mistake. On the bike and head to the next town for cash. Back again and paid the money. Take your tax free money and invest in some fly screen and a fan ya cheap b******. Finally I got on the way. The road that runs down both sides of lake Garda is half terraced tunnel half twisty coast road. An impressive feat of engineering. There are people who spend the whole day just lapping the lake looking impressive. I had no time for such things this morn and in my state of mind I was not going to enjoy anything, let alone looking good doing it. Motorway bound, itchy and annoyed at my own lack of planning more than anything, I set my mind to going as fast a the bike would go. The original plan was to get to La Spezia. Just outside of the city I looked for a campsite (at least my tent has a fly screen and is was only going to cost half or quarter of last night. I punched in the coordinates of the nearest campsite to the sea and low and behold I've been here before. Feeling very global and confident that I was going to be cookingi another meal on the Primus flavor destroyer I rode into town. What's this! All the streets are shut off to motors! Someone should have told Tom tom. I don't think the campsite exists. Dropping the stand I wander around somewhat overdressed for the occasion in boots, jacket, jeans and lugging my helmet to justify my dress I wander the beachfront looking for a bed. 3 or 4 hotels later I come to hotel Primavera. Oh we only have a double at 120€ a night. Sorry oh we do have a single room with a toilet and shower you share with one other single at 35€ a night. Done! A great result for this time of year and I think if I go through my luggage I can let a few mosquitoes out to make the price make sense. Might make it two nights for good measure. This is the Italy I love. Relaxed and carefree with little care that the tourists are here for a few months because life is good here. A brief swim and octopus salad later I headed back to broom closet (as I affectionately named it) and caught up on a couple of hours sleep. I emerged feeling like a new man. Off to get an espresso, a meal and look at all the Germans with their new red skin. Currently doing that but have moved on to beer because......I can. Arrivederci!