Caprera, the Maddalenas Thurs, 19th May

Well, plans are made to be changed. We sat out a mistral on Sunday. This is a northwesterly wind that whistles down the mountains, across the Golfe du Lyon from Provence in France to Italy. We saw 38 knots in the marina alone. So went sightseeing instead, taking the ferry from La Madd to the Sardinian "mainland" at Palau. Not that much there, but the ferry was fun and the wind across the strait was gusting 50 knots. Glad not to be out in it in our little boat. Sadly we lost one of our two big fat fenders though - really quite cross about that as they are proving to be the most useful!

Since then we have meandered in and out of the islands - there are three main islands in the southern group and another three in a northern group, and many many more little islets and rocky outcrops. It is wild and bleak, mostly rock and garrigue scrub. The water is absolutely transparent. There are apparently 4 different species of turtle to see, the most common being the big leatherback, beautiful and colourful little bee-eater birds, and mouflons (a shaggy ancestor of domestic sheep with large curved horns and brown fleece). I am keeping my eyes open, but have yet to spot any of these - bit like the whales, really. Elusive….. Oh and over 100 species of wild orchid. Have seen a few…

Been anchoring in various coves, tacked backwards and forwards almost across to Corsica and are now staying overnight on the second largest island called Caprera, using one of the National Park's buoys. There are 2 other Italian boats here, as well as one other British, a German, Swiss and Australian boat. So the international nomad community is still strong. We were first visited this evening by a National Parks RIB, who we thought were going to charge us. Instead one chap peeled off his trousers, donned wetsuit and proceeded to inspect the underwater tackle of all the buoys here, whether we were attached or not. Later the Guardia Finanza roared up and had a good look at all the boats, again we thought to come and take payment. Instead they spent about 20 minutes with each of the two Italian boats, inspecting papers and the like, and then roared off ignoring the foreign boats. Will they be back at 6am tomorrow one wonders?

Off across the straits of Bonifacio to Corsica tomorrow, goodbye Italy for a bit and dig out the courtesy flag for France. Trying to decide how much of Corsica to visit, may do a clockwise circuit as the west coast is supposed to be dramatic, then over the top to Bastia and thence back into Italian territory to the island of Elba. R has been trying to get there since his misspent youth when he failed in that mission on a hitch-hiking trip in his late teens. Or perhaps its just a Napoleon complex.

So arrivederci for now, next will be bonjour La Corse.

ps They have enovintners, bit like French caves, with big barrels of wine - you bring your own bottles and they fill them up - so 1 1/2 L of the Rosso and 1 1/2L of the Blanco Secco for a princely total of 4.95 Euros! We shall see if it takes the varnish off!