Ponza of the Pontine Islands Thursday, 23rd June

We can't keep away from them - we always gravitate to islands. Ponza is one of the Pontine Islands and is really the rim of a volcanic crater. It rises out of a very clear turquoise sea and is noted for its unusual rock formations, including great pillars, arches and grottoes. Trying to find a piece of pumice small enough to keep on the boat! We have spent a wonderful few days here, staying this long because it has been so nice. I had my birthday here, which was spent on a scenic bus tour of the island, some clambering up and down the cliffs, swimming and snorkelling and generally lazing about. And had some wonderful food.

A chap on a British boat came by and sold us an LED anchor light for E13 (retail £30+ at home), so I had the fun of winching Richard up the mast to fit it. Very bright, very pleased. Jane, close your ears, Clive it only takes 0.16 amps! Very hot work, so a swim was immediately called for after.

Ponza town is all pastel coloured houses, very pretty and surprisingly not too touristy with lots of little family businesses. Ponza has quite a market in fruit and veg and vines - the local white wine is refreshing and palatable. These are all cultivated on little terraces carved into the hillsides.

For my birthday we went out to a little restaurant - fish antipasti, then gnocchi, then frito misto and gambieri, followed by the most delicious granita. Couldn't manage anything else. Asked for bill and put down credit card. Carla (our waiter, owner, family member?) said, very sorry, we don't take cards of any sort. We didn't have enough cash. She suggested we go to the local hole in the wall and take some out. We didn't have the right cards on us. We all looked out over the bay, we said we were anchored out there, she could see our light. She shrugged and said," have a nice night, you come back tomorrow and pay me - you are nice people, I trust you"! We offered to leave something as security. She declined. Lots of smiles and handshakes and patting of arms.

We were so charmed by that trust, that we went back to the boat, raided the cash stash, and hopped right back in the dinghy to take it to her - now 11.30pm. She was embarrassed and pleased though and tried to ply us with free liqueurs as a result. You know how in some places you just feel ripped off? Well this place gives you the opposite feeling; one of warmth and kindness, and we are leaving it with regret and fond memories.

But Pompeii and Herculaneum await… We set off tomorrow, whether in two longish hauls, or 3 smaller, depends on wind. We aim to stick to islands as much as possible, cooler and much more interesting than the mainland. Apart from above mentioned sites of course. Whether we brave Naples itself or not - who knows.