"Able I was ere I saw Elba" - Saturday 11th June

Or some such palindrome - "unable we were to see Elba when we got here a week ago". It's the largest of the 7 islands that make up the Tuscan Archipelago Nature Reserve and obviously famous for looking after Napoleon for a while. We had a good crossing from Corsica, about 32nm, but as we approached the west of the island we heard coastguard reports of boats in difficulty and of thunderstorms off the N of Corsica. The sky was also blackening for us, so we took early precautions and got ourselves prepared for an onslaught. Luckily did not materialise until we were safely in Marina Marciana - anchored in the little bay. Then it was thunder and lightning and the rain came.

Richard has wanted to come here since failing to reach the island hitchhiking as a teenager - ran out of time/money, etc. We had rain for the 1st three days, on and off, interspersed with sunny bits. We have done a complete circumnavigation - well in fact we have been 1 ½ times round. Principle stops were Marciana, Portoferraia and Port Azurro, with little coves and bits in between. Highlights and lowlights:

Lowlights have been the rain, cloud, thunder and not enough wind, but when there was wind, it was always in the wrong direction. Highlights outweigh the lows by far and we really like the island.

Portoferraia, where Napoleon had his home in exile, was a definite highlight. There are fortresses and ramparts, built by the Medici (Cosima 1), much 15th and 16th C stuff still standing and wonderful views. It is said that Napoleon lived a simple, nay Spartan, life here, but going round his house, I could luxuriate in his version of Spartan. It's not huge, but it is beautifully proportioned and appointed with rooms for the servants, elegant furniture, paintings and sculptures and trompe l'oeil ceilings, etc. And formal gardens. Looking over the sea. I wouldn't mind being exiled here. But I suppose if you are used to Fontainebleu….

The west coast is craggy, the east coast is red from iron (mining remains) and flatter. The countryside itself is remarkably green and apparently stays that way - no doubt all this lovely rain! Lots of perfumed plants, orchids, vines, etc and very beautiful. Round to Porto Azurra where the 16th C Fortress has been used in the 19th & 20th C as a prison for "hardened criminals", including those of a political and Mafioso nature. Its name, Longone, has deeply ingrained connotations in Italian minds, so they changed the name of the port to Azurra in the hope of encouraging tourism.

The major highlight was taking a bus up to Marciana town itself, which is perched high up on a hill. From there you can take a cable car up to the top of Monte Capanna, the highest mountain on Elba. It's a little round open car, a bit scary (see pics). From the top you can see the whole shape of the island, as well as Corsica and Capraia to the west and Italian mainland to the east.

We were also very brave and decided to do a one way trip only and do the return on foot - not to Marciana, but to another hill top village called Poggia (appropriate as we are both feeling a bit well fed and podgy). This was roughly 3 miles of vertical descent, first through garrigue , rock and scree, then along a ridge of maquis and more rock, then forest and more rock. (It was a signposted descent and we did meet more appropriately equipped climbers en-route). Both Poggia and Marciana are built straight into the rock, in terraces, a complete rabbit warren of little streets or rather paths connected vertically with each other via steps. And pots and pots of flowers everywhere. A steep descent for us and we were a tad tired, hot and sticky and glad to get back to little boat bobbing in the harbour - and a swim.

But an adventure.

Now its farewell to Elba and we're finally heading south again - first to another Tuscan island, Giglio, then making our way to Rome, as quickly as we can. So a few longer hops. Hope all's well. S, IOW turned out not so muddy by the looks of it! xx