Something of Sicily -Tuesday, 19th July

One for the Sailors and one for All

Sailors: Well they were pussycats. Mind you we had no wind at first, left at 5.30am and motorsailed most of the way (35nm) to reach the top of the Strait bang on midday. Even though flat calm the wind did suddenly blow 20kn around Scylla and the water went from dancing riplets to oily calm and from 2 plus SOG kn to 2 minus SOG kn within the space of minutes, indicating whirlpools beneath us on the Charybdis side. This is where the Tyrrhenian Sea (warmer and less salty) meets the Ionian (colder and saltier) and where the two combine, one under the other, eddies and whirlpools can develop. Apparently they are a lot less severe now following a very bad earthquake in the late 1800's that killed up to 100,000 people. It must have flattened the sea bed in that area. But going through in inclement weather would no doubt be a little too exciting. A long haul down to Taormina (70 nm in all) where we spent a couple of days.

And the Rest: Taormina is perched high on the cliff with views of the bays below (where we were). There is a funicular up to the top or buses. It is mostly geared to visitors now, but the old centre is lovely with its ancient port gates standing guard over it. Everywhere are little piazzas, alleyways and steps, streets winding up and down, all with little cafes or shops, and all with a profusion of flowers, bougainvillea in particular. And churches and castellos. Of key note here is the fabulous Greek Theatre, still in remarkable condition. And Florence Trevelyan's gardens with their 19th century follies. We had spent a week here over 20 yrs ago, so kept this visit short as we need to make tracks a bit.

All along the coast here is overshadowed by Etna - as high as some of the Alps - and puffing and smoking like mad. Heard another couple of booms and saw mushroom clouds, but presumably nothing like the other Wednesday. Another 50nm stint with good sailing the whole way (almost forgotten we are a sailing boat!) down to Siracusa. There is a large sheltered bay to anchor in. An expensive little marina. And a free town quay you moor stern to having put an anchor out. We are out in the bay, it is unbearably hot and this is the coolest place to be.

Really like Siracusa - it's in two parts really, the old town of Ortigia, a sort of island promontory joined to the land by little bridges, and Siracusa main town. It has an archaeological park that contains the largest Greek theatre outside of Greece, the "Orecchio or Ear of Dionysis" (a naturally cathedral like cave shaped like an ear and with strange acoustics), various catacombs, necropoli, Latomia del Paradiso - strange rock formations and quarries that housed prisoners, a Roman amphitheatre, and more). Sadly a lot of the area was cordoned off, and some of the sites are overgrown and in danger of further ruin - methinks the finances are not there to support its upkeep.

The wonderful thing about the Greek theatres though, is they are still in use today, here and in Taormina. There, June and August there are classical plays, Greek tragedies by the likes of Euripides, but also the odd comedy of, say, Aristophanes. And July it is film season, with the open air theatre screening all sorts, holding award ceremonies, and also musical events (we just missed Joe Cocker by 2 days!). Here in Siracusa, there are also classical productions taking place in the Greek theatre, as well as operas and ballet productions (Tosca last night) in the Castello Maniace at the tip of the Ortigia promontory.

Ortigia itself is fabulous though. A complete maze of little streets, with falling down buildings cheek by jowl with well-preserved examples and about 15 Palazzos. It was home to Archimedes (who had his Eureka moment here whilst in the bath and went running naked through the streets shouting about it. He has a piazza named in his honour. And the magnificent Piazza del Duomo with its wide spaces and grand Cathedral - a place of worship has stood here for 2,500 years.

Best of all though is the best ever open air market we have found since arriving in Italy. It is daily, local, colourful, noisy and friendly. Umpteen fish stalls, the fruit and vegetables are beautiful and lush (2 kilos of peaches for 1 Euro, 3 melons also for 1 Euro), the prepared items, like home-made tomato paste, pestos and the like sold in punnets, sun-dried tomatoes, peppers in olive oil and garlic. Etc etc. Off there to stock up on a few delicacies.

We headed south today. A couple of stops then on our way to Gozo in the next couple of days weather willing, where we will leave the boat for August. It is now too too hot! And the diesel bug is back. Oh Oh.