The Bus is coming at 10am. I've not alot to pack or take as my rucksack is at Mo's(LT). It looks like it has been raining most of the night and is still spitting. The bus stops about 2 hours into the journey at Thaweesin hot springs. Eggs are being boiled and the area has the same odour. A small place, now a tourist attraction. I will be curious to see my old photos as there are so many places that I have no recollection from my old guide book. We partly hitch hiked or waited hours at the side of the road for a bus, with no one speaking English. The cooling rain dries almost instantly in the heat and humidity. The roads are wider and designed for the influx of tourists. Before, narrow roads with old tarmac or dusty trails. There is room now for the odd 7-11 or 2 and where a tourist can be attracted a small community has grown. In between the small towns, the land is littered with paddy fields, encased by mountains on both sides. Laos looms from the right hand side, it's sleepy nature, curled up behind the natural border. In front Myanmar. We pass through Mae Suai and stop again at Ban Rong Kun. I check maps.me and we're not far from Chiang Rai. Seems to be a tourist stop for the White temple. Could be the snow queens palace in an alternative Narnia. Odd looking gargoyles akin to a budget Predator protect the strange temple. Even the traffic cones have skulls on them. Quite the monstrosity. I am more interested in a little bus stop with no timetable. I take a photo and remember our hitch hiking journey mentioned above, stopping at one of these. With only a few buildings at a previous location, it was a wing and a prayer as to whether a bus would turn up, never mind as to where it was going. Now a choice of minibus, taxi or tuk tuk is available. A small market has been built next to the temple, the street scattered with coffee shops. Literally a few minutes later we stop at the bus station. We still seem far out of the main town. I negotiate a tuk tuk for 100 bhat, a bargain looking at the way still to go.
Instantly I like Chiang Rai. There are rows of vendors selling jeans with no obvious place to stop on the busy road. The area just outside seems to be a commercial and Industrial park, with a Central Plaza attracting the usual array of western food trappings, far enough away to stop a diabetes epidemic spreading. A large Toyota dealership stands next to it. There are more cars here than mopeds.
I arrive at the Fun-D hostel, the D an unknown. Its very slick, staff are friendly and I am led to my room, passing a large dining area, a common room sealed off behind glass with computers to use. Security gates with electronic keycards, porcelain sheep everywhere. My room is on the top floor and the keycard is inserted for the electricity. Flat screen tele with local satellite box, fridge, shower caps, my own porcelain sheep and even a bed. No corners cut. I dump my stuff and head to their rooftop social area to get the lay of the land, none the wiser so I leave the hostel.
I am given a map soon realising it would be easier to get lost in the alcohol section at an Islamic supermarket. Walking along the road and its the town that has almost stood still. I have little recollection of Chaing Rai and without a journal the same issue would apply. Perfect.
School has just finished and there are lots of vendors competing with the 7-11 shops, selling everything from sweet drinks to rice dishes. There is a large gold clock tower at an intersection and I pass small moats with stocked goldfish. The school kids sit eating their treats. The town is made up of 4 roads in the centre and I follow the circling road round entering a market selling everything from 3 foot candles to silver baseball caps. The amount of gold shops is incredible but unlike certain locations in the uk none of the gold chains have 3 barreled names on them reminding the owner of who they are, the Thais minds not yet fried from cheap booze. I pass a food market, large chunks of fly ridden chicken coated in breadcrumbs popular amongst the fresh meats, veg and fruit. I walk to Wat Mung Muang and look inside. A simple Wat and I have seen enough Wats to last a lifetime. I head along the road, passing more gold shops and shops that I have no clue as to their purpose, only written in Thai. Change is slow here and not a Korean or Chinese tourist in sight. I finish my tour at the King Mengrai Monument. Other than a couple of larger hotels, a few coffee shops and bars haphazardly scattered across town I have finally found a piece of my old Thailand. Happy and drenched in sweat I head back to the hostel (LT). The young backpackers still stuck in the glass plated common room/zoo. Typing up my notes I get ready for the Night Bazaar.
I hear a cat being murdered. Then I notice the Korean tourists in the hostel belting out tunes at the empty karaoke. The staff try and entice me but I'd rather eat another tarantula. I enquire about mopeds and can hire one here. I head along to the market. A quiet market that attracts the tourists in town. I sit and listen to some local music, but my stomach is grumbling. I've not eaten since breakfast, a rather small banana. I speed past the cloth, wood carving and t-shirt stalls and find a large food bazaar. Food stalls align the sides with plenty of seating for everyone. I order some chicken on a stick with sweet chile. Surprisingly filling. Simple but tasty.
I look up from my chicken, eyes scanning around the food vendors, fruit shakes, tom yum, sushi, pad thai, items written only in Thai. A large array. I do notice a hotpot and will be back tomorrow for that. I notice a stage where woman in gowns and tiaras have just come onto the stage, singing and looking overly glamorous for the surroundings. Not much Fun in Fun-D, but I sit and watch Walter Mitty on one of the film channels planning tomorrows trip