Up for French toast. As we're leaving the chef gives us an extra slice. We say farewell to Janny and she gives us both a bottle of water. Even though the rooms were a mosquito commune, the hospitality was outstanding. If I pass this way again, I know where I'll be staying. Craig's shorts ripped yesterday and Janny was about to take him to a tailors when our lift turns up. We get taken to a minibus that is packed. Craig and I pull down the seats in between the main seats. Another endurance test. Trying to stay in my seat is fun, as there is no groove and a tiny back to it. We stop after an hour, glad to be able to stretch my legs. As the road rises towards to mountain, the driver hellbent in getting there I record time, it twists and turns making the seat even more uncomfortable. I lock my arms between my neighbours seats to hold on. The scenery becomes green and mountainous, trees clinging to the limestone formations like moss on a tree.
I had emailed Banana Bungalows but did not receive a reply. We opt for Jammee Guesthouse on the outskitst of town. The tuk tuk takes us the walkable distance and we meet our Australian host. He arrived here 4 years ago on holiday. Liked it and decided to stay. We get a room for 120000 (£8). This may be the biggest bargain of the trip(LT). Mosquito nets hang over the beds, spacious and has a seating area outside. A mountain vista with the noise of the jungle for company. We go looking for a tailor, Craig not giving up on his favourite shorts. The town mainly based on 2 roads, with a few more bars along an old cobbled road near the river. We stop at a restaurant in the centre. The fruit shakes in Laos are great and today's is Mango. The stodgy pizza is not so great but the picture looked so good. The pace is slow even for Laos, but it's the tonic I need just now.
We put our laundry in and I upload some photos. Once the sun goes down, we venture into town to check out the night life. We have a beer at Mad Monkey. Oil drums for barstools. The bar is empty other than the uncountable number of insects on the pool table. 1 game is enough before we move on. All the restaurants seem to be showing Friends but it seems to draw a crowd. We opt for one that has no TV. A slow walk as the air is humid. Craig goes for a dish called Chicken Laap. I try the Laos sweet and sour. Craig is crying, I'm not sure if its the magic of Wet Wet Wet singing in the background or his dinner. I try a bite and molten lava would have been more palatable. We find a bar with reggae playing and sit at the bar. We chat with some 19 year old English lads. One of the lads is limping and has a huge scab on his leg. He tells us that his mates hired motorbikes and rode from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh. Then did a similar trip from Hanoi to Ho Chi Min but unfortunately hit a bus that pulled out. Still in good spirits and quite the adventure.
We find another empty bar. The drunken owner cheerfully gives us both a free shot and we play a few games of pool. The owner whooping with delight when a ball is potted.
We head back to the last bar and watch a surprisingly great game of pool. An arrogant Israeli is playing a talented local girl. He is being beaten whilst his friends watch. The bar is all watching silently willing her to win. He uses every tactic to put her off her game, but she cooly pots the black and the bar erupts in a cheer. We sit on the cushions at the back watching the table football, pool and bar. The rain starts and falls heavily, streets glowing with the flashes of lightning. The bar is supposed to close at 11pm, but the owner keeps it open due to the rain. We find a dry window at 1am and make a move. The street is now a river and we trudge through the water. A large crane is illuminated by the angry sky. Water flows from the telephone box as we walk through the empty town. The hospital is reflected in the carparks rainfall, reminiscent of Resident Evil.
We stay up for a bit and finally try a game of Talisman on the Ipad.