We had booked to go back to Phnom Penh today but got the bemused hostel owner to change it to tomorrow. Sometimes you find a place that is special. Spending days in a place soaking up culture and atmosphere is worth sacrificing seeing a guidebooks checklist.

We were told about a North Korean restaurant in Phnom Penh from Niall last night. Cambodia and NK have links and I will be interested to hear the propaganda and happy to skip a Wat or 2. Apparently the staff get up on the stage singing about the wonder of NK.

Breakfast is a strange meal. We had arranged to meet Billy but instead sat talking to Matt and Julianne, who are unboxing an old camera previously used for modelling shoots. I have some French toast with caramelised banana but turns out to be lumps of toffee glued to the bread and banana.

I find a quiet spot along the river with a breeze and catch up on some of my travel notes. Craig had hired a bicycle and had been battling the heat. He sits and has a coke before heading along the river. We book a sunset tour and firefly tour. We have seen nice boats with bars built in but ours appears to be a longboat with an engine extracted from a toothbrush. Bums numb we stop in the dark and are led to a bush with about a dozen flies. Not what I was expecting and a little anticlimatic.

Back at Victoria's we sample more Khmer cooking. I try a dish called Saramon. A beef meal in a soup bowl with peanuts and pepper. It comes with small nan breads and jasmine rice.

As mentioned Cambodian food is the best in the region so far for me. The KR killed so many people that many recipes are now lost.

We go for our beers at Rusty's and see Niall. I find out Julian runs the cinema here. They are going to start showing trailers at each others venues with Billy making the short clips.

Back at Moi Tiet, we say our farewells to everyone. I will miss Kampot.