An American who Craig met in Vietnam on a previous trip, has been in Kampot for 2 months and meets us at Rusty's. Finishing our beers, Billy takes us to a tiny roadside Italian which is remarkable for such a setup. Great pizza, gnocci with blue cheese and creamy pasta.

Billy had previously bought cigarettes from a corner shop here. He discovered that the grumpy owner used to be one of the main Khmer Generals. Currently lower operatives are being trialled, but I suppose his days are numbered.

Over dinner Billy discusses a funeral he went to in a village 2 hours outside Phnom Penh - Pray Beang. The funeral was a hundred day celebration where the owner of the bones is dug up and burned again. Lots of drink and a celebration of life.

We talk to a wild eyed Frenchman. After discussing a place called Mondo Karee, near the Vietnam border, where you can ride with the elephant hearders we discuss food.

He went to somewhere in the east years ago where a monkey was presented onto to the table. To avoid insulting his hosts, he smashed a hammer over its head eating the delicate brain inside. He mimics a gun sound if he had not tried.

Laughing manically he tells us there is a restaurant in Phnom Penh which is more civilised. Only the head is seen through holes in the table. Not top of my list of things to see and do.

Moving from the street side to Moi Teang, a nice little bar tucked a few streets away. Billy gets excited when a little Cambodian ringing a bell pops into view. Wearing a cowboy hat he pushes an ice cream bicycle along the road. He makes and sells little coconut ice cream cones for 25 cents. This wonderful little enterprise has put his kids through college.

We sit outside cooling with the ice cream. A lad from Quebec, reminding me of Captain Jack Sparrow, breaks the peace, quite insane mumbling about wife and kids. Travelling attracts all types, but there are those that become completely lost.

We move out the back and are joined by a Canadian girl who teaches in Phnom Penh and an American girl who owns the bar. With geckos making their distinctive noise, we enjoy our own private beer garden.

Sitting by the river on our way back to the hostel, Craig and I watch a lightening storm in the distance.