Day 49, 22 August 2012, Istanbul - Grand Bazaar, Sunken Palace/Basilica Cistern, Blue Mosque, Arasta Bazaar - Life returned to the weary travellers today and we set off to the Grand Bazaar, about 5 minutes walk from our lodgings. C'est tres grande- en fait - c'est trop grande! After three hours of wandering the main street, the side streets, the side, side streets and the back alleys of this massive covered bazaar we concluded there truly is nothing new under the sun. From treasure to tat - white gold and diamond Omega watches to the finest glittering rubbish, we saw it all. And bought a new pair of boardshorts for James to replace the fallen comrades left at our hotel in Madaba. The Cat of the Day moment occurred at a lamp shop where 3 tiny kittens were curled up asleep on the welcome mat. A bit like spun glass perfume bottles and large turkish platters, I suspected they wouldn't travel well and we regretfully left them there. This alleyway appeared to be devoted to replicas of Aladdin's lamp and other metal treasures - armour, door handles and coal scuttles. Some turkish coffee and a baked mushroom pilaf for morning tea in a back alley carried us through to a banana icecream as we left the bazaar and that powered us through to lunch - the most traditional of turkish dishes - a chicken kebab and fresh orange juice. Obviously spending fortunes on food - up to US$12 between us for the day so far and it was only lunchtime. Not wanting to break with tradition we (well I) had a massive nap and then we set off for the Basilica Cistern - or Sunken Palace Cistern. The most amazing thing about this fabulous underwater creation of Emperor Justinian is that Turkey forgot it was there at some point and it had to be rediscovered! (see cover photo) (http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/go/Istanbul/Sights/Sultanahmet/Yerebatan.html). The final "tick" on the sightseeing for the day was the compulsory stop at the Blue Mosque - shoes off, headscarf on, hushed voices - 22,000 mosaic tiles contribute to making this a stunning centrepiece for the old district - we saw it at sunset last night, but it was closed for prayer. Timed our visit better this time - missed Allah-O'Clock by 40 minutes or so. Around the corner and down the street from the Mosque is a pretty lane way called the Arasta Bazaar - devoted in large part to turkish carpets and cushions. By this stage a flying carpet would have come in handy - but no such luck and it was Shanks's Pony back to the main road. Early in the evening we'd organised bus tickets to Cappadocia at a local travel agency. Which had used up our last lira.... and so began the dance of the dozen ATMs Should have robbed the Citibank ATM at Ataturk Airport because the local banks just plain don't like our plastic. But that's why they invented Bureau de Change - so we got to eat dinner afterall.... Felafel and Hommous was so good. Including water and a couple more juices we were up to US$20 for the day. Off to bed to prepare for the Hardie invasion of Hagia Sofia tomorrow (was a Church, then a Mosque, Now a museum. Even if "God"s not confused, we are!). Also Topkapi Palace - apparently the world's 4th largest diamond is calling my name even as I write. Bring on tomorrow, but for now we bid you adieu.