The next day we had planned to awake early and travel to Agria Gramvoussa. Again Michael is yelling at the drivers and I'm trying to figure out this ridiculous map. We came to Kissamos driving on the main road when all of a sudden it became what we thought was somebody's backyard and suddenly the pavement became non-existent and the rocky dirty road began. I thought we both had seen horrible mountain roads before until we discover this road. I've learned to close my eyes, hold onto my handle, and keep my mouth shut. I guess if you make it to your destination alive what is there to argue about. We decided to make sandwiches to take along our walk and just as we turned around we had a friendly visitor (the goat) sniffing around waiting for any handouts. All packed with snorkel gear, food and the beach bag we started our walk to Balos beach and this time with proper walking shoes. We walked looking at nothing but rocks, dirt and small bushes, again in 30 degree weather. Just as we both looked at each other and said, "this beach better be worth it," over the hill you come to this beautifully colored water with so many shades of green and blue. We have seen many beaches but so far this was maybe one of the most uniques places. Racing down the hill we couldn't wait to put our snorkeling gear on and jump into the water. The water was clear and refreshing but not one fish and no sort of underwater life. After the long walk back to the car we quickly drove back to Chania for our sunset cruise. Michael sitting on the boat dreaming and me completely exhausted from the sun, we made some new friends and received free drinks. Back to the room we had our wine and tried to navigate through the streets to the highly recommended Taverna Ela. We sat on the second level our own private balcony overlooking two men singing Cretan music.