From Nemrut Dagi our next stop would be Hattusas, the ruins of a city that date back nearly 3500 years, but like everything in Turkey, it was a long way away and would take us two days to get there and unfortunately there are few camp grounds and some of the hotels are less than good, as we were about to find out. We were coming into Pinabasi when a German biker riding another BMW came along side and gestures for us to stop with him. So when he pulled in for fuel we stopped also. He was also looking to camp, but couldn't find anything in his guide, so would settle for a hotel with us. After asking around we eventually found the only place in town. They wanted 60TL without breakfast, normally we had had breakfast for that price, and they wanted paying up front, we didn't. Our room was above the restaurant, only two of our four lights worked, the TV didn't work, the toilet was down the hall with only one of two lights working and to flush you had to run a hose into it, it was a squat toilet. Julie and I had showers before meeting our German friend for dinner in the restaurant. While eating we noticed water dripping into the dinning area and then a man came and asked to be let in our room, obviously thinking we had flooded our room, but when we checked he saw it was OK and it must have been dodgy plumbing! Dinner was nothing marvelous so we didn't stay for breakfast. Most of the run for this day was through undulating hills of more farming and we arrived in Bogazkale mid afternoon. We had been told about a camp ground behind a hotel here and it was very nice, we were the only ones there. The staff were helpful and the food quite reasonable. The next day we looked around Hattusas, there is not a lot left of this city because it was constructed mainly of footing stones with mud brick or timber walls and roofs, but it was most interesting and we also met a nice local man for tea while admiring the view over the valley. Our next stop was to be Istanbul, but that was another two days away. We headed north towards the Black Sea and on the way passed through a town that had the worst air pollution we have seen, we don't know what the industry was, we also don't know how people can breath there, we also hit a new record of 43.5° in that town. As we got close to the coast and into the mountains we finally started seeing forest and were out of the farming lands. We had trouble finding a place to camp and finished up camping in what could be described as a grass car park at a hotel/restaurant, owned and run by a very nice family that showed us generous hospitality. We planned one more stop before Istanbul as the pace was slow along the coast due to the windy roads and all the small towns we passed through, the countryside was a lot nicer along here, but for some reason there was a lot more rubbish dumped off the sides of the road. We camped at the closest camp to Istanbul, it was 40Km out to the west, a very nice park though. We caught the bus and train into the city, there were 57 stops on the bus and 18 on the train, total cost to get into town for the two of us 13TL, about $7, each way and it took over two hours. We spent most of the day looking around at the Grand Bazaar and the Royal Palace, we also had a look in the Blue Mosque, all very interesting and busy. The next day we were back in Bulgaria. The final numbers for Turkey, three weeks, 5000Km, six car crashes and two truck fires! We had been told how hospitable the Turks were and they were, we stopped once to read the map and before we knew it a man and woman were asking where we were going and if we needed help, while offering us some apricots at the same time and while we were talking to them a car pulled up and asked if we needed help!