We spent a nice relaxed last day in Antigua, punctuated only by a massive storm on Sunday night, which we thought was normal fare even as the courtyard flooded around our hostel. It was only when a concerned owner appeared and shouted at her husband that we were a bit worried. Anyway, that ordeal over the next day we were on our prearranged bus for a three hour trip up the country to the breathtaking volcanic Lake Aticlan. We arrived in Panajachel, where we walked down to the beach past the market setting itself up (once again we had gone for the "early" option) and got a water taxi to our home for the next few days, the English Hostel Iguana Perdida and its accompanying diving school, ATI Divers. We managed to sneak a double room at the front of the building with a gorgeous lakeside view for about 6 pounds a night, and started our Advanced Diving Course the next day for a very very cheap 90 pounds each. The diving was not altogether spectacular, although we finished with a very exhilarating deep dive down the volcano side and got to put our hands into hot volcanic mud. The staff were mainly backpackers like ourselves, and each evening they prepared a three course vegi meal for us, which varied from pizza to tempura, but kept us well nourished. After the last dive on Wednesday we returned for a night in Panajachel, and enjoyed the crafts market, slightly smaller but more diverse and fortunately cheaper than the one in Antigua. Our night was comfortable in Mario's Rooms and the next morning we rose late, had breakfast and caught the 11 o'clock bus straight back to Guatemala City Lots of love from one of the most beautiful places on earth, Stu and Mel