We got the overnight bus from Flores to Guatemala City for about a tenner each. Mel slept for the whole eight hours (reminding her of the old CH ski trips!). Arriving in the city we tried to get out of it asap and headed to Antigua with a taxi driver who was either colour blind or just didnt see red lights and a pimped up chicken bus (the buses here are much more cared for, aesthetically at least) Antigua is lovely. Views of the volancoes surround the city, the buildings and ruins are magical, the people are friendly. The town is made of calle running one way and avenues running across them. The main one is 4a calle which has the post office, gran jaguar travel agents and mcdonalds! There are lots of schools and universities here and the children all look very smart. Every corner or street is filled with markets although mainly selling the same things and so we do end up getting lost. We are staying in San Jeronimo which is between the main market square and the san jeronimo ruins (it was built as a school but did not have a charter and so was made into the customs house until the earthquake in 1773) On our first night we managed to buy all the ingredients for tuna vegetable pasta and fruit salad (pineapple, melon, apple and starfruit were the only things I recognized!) from the market (for about 3 pounds) and managed to cook it in our hostel. Mel and a brave but disgruntled Stu went on a 2 hour pony trek up into the mountains the next day. It was lovely to go through the little villages, ride up the mountain above Antigua, and ride back into town (mel felt like Pippi Longstocking!). Our guide really did show us all walks of life out here and also took us straight through the middle of a funeral. With very sore legs and bottoms we returned. (Kate and Matt - you thought the horses in Scotland had issues!) The next morning with tired achy legs we rose at 530am to walk up Volcan Pacaya. We got on a chicken bus with lots of loud over enthusiastic Americans up towards the volcano. After 1.5hours the driver stopped and said "now you go to sit on the roof of the bus where the best photos are". We then stayed sat on the roof as he drove up the side of a windy mountain track for 30 mins! "watch out for branches" were the last words of the driver! We then had to begin the walk. We had a guide and the trail has police on it. It is now much safer for tourists. The first 20 mins is a vertical slog followed by a steep walk for 1.5 hours (think less of Sharpenhurst and more of Gold D of E in Poland!). Our riding legs were really feeling it. Some people chickened out and got a horse ride up but I think even walking was preferred by Stu atleast. Finally when we reached the top the views were brilliant, the lava had come down either 2 or 8 days before and was still hot even 1 metre away. The mixture of black rock, green hills and cloud was beautiful. Stu ran down as our guide said it was like skiing - mel walked as it was not like skiing in the slightest. We had a very whistle happy guide who ran down the 1.5 hour path blowing his whistle so we all followed and then he would stop sometimes and chat while we all got our breath back. So that completed our hike up the Pacaya Volcano and was the first of the BBC Things to do before you die! We are off on Monday to Lake Atitlan where we are going to do the next PADI Diving Course (advanced) for 100 pounds - much cheaper than in the caribbean. It takes place in a lake formed from a caved in volcano! Love from the country that offers free internet if you buy a Mcdonalds! Mel and Stu x