Lots of highs and lows since we last wrote as we moved from diving at 1600m to diving to 43m... San Ignacio Highs: We sat in car inner tubes and floated through a cave network and rainforest - the ultimate lazy river ride We got a cheap room at hotel plaza which was lovely with 2 double beds, tv and hot water!!! It was run by a very sweet old couple We found two beautiful carved wooden boats to fill mels rucksack we met up with Kate and Mike Hallam who were once agin chilling and drinking Met Rachel and Lee from the USA Lows: Mel missed the sex and the city special because a bus hit the power cable and wiped the whole village electricity out Mel got bitten on the forehead while in rainforest Then on to Caye Caulker (go slow it said as we arrived on the dock) Highs: We eventually did #2 fo the bbc things to do before you die. We dived in the blue hole (see pic), which involves diving down to 43m and swimming under stalagmites the size of trees, swimming with giant reef sharks. It is a collapsed ice age cave. The last dive site we did was called the aquarium - which really was amazing, we swam in whole schools of very curius fish. Ragamuffin tours - this truly is the best thing to do on the island, No chug chug diesel boats but sailing boats that take you to the reef and shark ray alley. Just walk along the beach front until you see the ragamuffin hut and charlie will be there to welcome you and help you with any queries. They do 3 day trips or day trips. We did the day trip twice (thanks charlie). The first stop you get to snorkel on your own and then later you go with a guide who points out lots of useful things. We stroked a shark and a ray, saw a huge turtle, held a sea cucumber and a starfish. After the beautiful snorkelling, lovely company and good fish burgers we sailed back with tropical rum punch and tortillas with conch salsa, had a quick swim before arriving back. We got photos of dory, bubbles and crush - no nemo yet! We also took fate in our hands and kayaked out to the reef and did some snorkelling on our own. However our kayak did sit quite low in the water and a lot lower by the time we had paddled into the waves for 30 mins! We also got to dabble as bartenders for one night and worked with Lucy for our keep. Mel took food orders and Stu did the bar with Lucy. We did have fun and even collected some tips! Lows - After being in the sea all day you can come out and have a salt water shower only. No fresh water on island! on our second day we returned to ourlocked hotel room to discover that someone had stolen our whole hand luggage - not just the money but everything including dive books, mels journal, mels underwear, first aid kit and generally lots of stuff and our dive money. Although frustrating all will be recover hopefully with dear endsleigh and we still had cash card and passports thank goodness! What made it better was veryobne was truly lovely. We stayed at romie and jims for free for the next 2 nights with free food, charlie cheered us up no end by putting us on a snorkel tour and even the internet cafe let us cancel cards for free. The big low was the police. Go slow is definitely the excuse for the ineptitude. It took 3 hours to give a statement and then they asked why we did not report it sooner! We were then interoogated to check our story was right. The police said they knew the gardener at the hotel and so were not going to question him because they trusted him. Then had to go across to san pedro to get our police report. we sat for 5 hours and eventually one competent person told us they couldnt issue them and so we had missed our ferry for no reason and gave us a badly faxed copy of our statement to keep endsleigh happy. San Pedro is horrible and busy and not relaxed - i dont know why people stay here rather than caye caulker. Love from the place with some of the nicest and horriblest people ever, Mel