We got up planning to leave but decided the alpine air was too good to not stick around and enjoy. N+G went off on the motorbike and we wandered into town. The road runs alongside a fast flowing stream, although in melt-water time it would be a torrent. Kayaks and rafts tumble downstream and every now and then a minibus with trailer passes by to fetch them at the end of their run.

The town is a quaint muddle of narrow lanes flanked by chalet houses with sturdy winter shutters. We find L'Alpen bar and stop for a drink to use the wifi. The Owner moved here from Peterborough 25 years ago. He tells us the tunnel closure may threaten their winter trade, and that this summer is exceptionally hot. Also, a rule of thumb is that temperature drops 1C for each 100m altitude. We're at 1500m and it's 33C

Minutes later our attempt to buy postcards is cut short - as we are looking, the racks are literally wheeled away from in front of us as the shopkeeper closes up for lunch.

As it is lunchtime we find a nice little restaurant serving crepes and Breton cidre so we sit in the shade and order. Beside the terrace is a large stone trough and waterspout running a constant flow of mountain water, from which the waiter fills large glass carafes for the diners.

After lunch we return to the aire and wander out along the valley road towards La Salle. The crickets are in full voice and some a big as 3" are basking on the road but the best fun is to trundle though the grass and watch hundreds of them leap in all directions like a pan of popcorn.

The scenery is stunning with sun on the rocks and the mountains looking enormous.

In the evening we all return to the restaurant for our dinner; hot, cheesy tarteflettes and local red wine. On the way back to the vans In the dusk we can see lights twinkling along the valley and in the night the temperature drops to 15C prompting the retrieval of duvets after weeks of a sheet or less.