The aire stayed quiet until 05:45, from when the traffic on the adjacent road gradually increased.

We dropped down alongside the river for a few miles then along quiet, pretty roads, first in a rocky valley then through dense woodland with the odd small town along the way. In one of these we found a boulangerie and bought quiches for lunch which we had in a shady, forest layby.

As we neared the Provence region the roads had frequent, narrow stretches through mature avenues of epitome trees. These avenues have obviously prevented any road widening and required real caution with the vans as some of the trees leaned inwards. Outside the dark tunnels of trees, fields of sunflowers glowed brightly, and in other places we saw long rows of lavender in full bloom.

We were flagged to a stop at the start of one stretch of road and told the road was closed briefly due to 'shooting a movie'. Within minutes a 50s style Citroen 'washboard' van drove through followed by a Peugeot 404 and Citroen Ami 8 and finally a late 60s Merc complete with old style yellow headlights. When we were allowed to continue we passed a DS19, with fake bullet holes, in a layby and a few miles on a supermarket carpark with the film crew's trailers and a transporter full of more old cars.

We reached Apt and park; the drivers rest while Ali and Grete wander into town. The old part is pleasant enough but marred by ugly modern buildings on the outskirts.

A few miles from Apt is Gargas, where we follow the narrow road and dusty driveway to Chateau Pireal, our France Passion for tonight. We park next to an almond orchard with picture-book panoramic views across a typical Provence landscape. Cicadas rattle all around and a bird of prey soars overhead.

The owner comes to meet us and we arrange to go for tasting. From 11 hectares he produces 40,000 bottles a year, 8000 of which are sold from the shop with the rest being sold commercially to restaurants etc. About 400 bottles a year get used for tasting.

Ali cooks, appropriately, cod Provencal which we eat in under the almond trees watching the sun set over the valley. It's a lovely way to spend our last night together.