Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
It was sad to leave Swanage but we weren't going very far. Green fields and rolling countryside contrasts sharply with the steep white cliffs turning to burgundy as you got closer to Sidmouth.
We've had every kind of weather from beautiful sun (even had the air conditioner on for a while) to nasty wind and rain (hence the full rain gear - pants and all!). Still we both kind of enjoy the wild side.
Walking along the coast with wind whipping up so hard you think you will fall over and rain coming down at regular intervals, we took time to sit on the beach and soak it all in. We were the only ones on the beach which made it all the nicer. As soon as we got back to our bed and breakfast the sun broke through yet again.
There is a public garden in Sidmouth, right on the cliff above the ocean, which is one of the prettiest I've seen. Spring flowers are in full bloom right now and the views of the far off cliffs are amazing. Amid the beach walkways, gardens and stately old hotels are a number of "watch out for old people" signs. As I creep closer to 60 I begin to understand why all those protected sitting areas look enticing.
Next morning the rain was even heavier. Did I mention in this blog how, when we had arrived in England, we were greeted with news that the country was experiencing drought? Well, last night on the news there were reports of severe flooding and areas having to be evacuated. This is a country of extremes for sure!
This whole coast has a history of smuggling. One of the villages we went through, Beer, is well know for (no, not beer) lace making, fishing and contraband. The rugged shoreline is ideal for the 'trade' with hidden bays and wild surf that only those with local knowledge can navigate.
On our way to visit relatives just north of Tavistock we stopped in at a church in Broadclyst. We had heard that there were relatives buried here and began our search by a soggy walk through the graveyard. Then, inside the church, I found the statue of a reclining Sir John Acland below a stained glass window dedicated to his daughter and a statue of his wife. Then we went up the road to Killerton, an Acland family estate house donated to the National Trust. This house has even closer ties to the family. It was like going home to see pictures on the walls of family members we had only read about in books or on the internet. Again we were amazed (and very much appreciated) the knowledge of the volunteers.
Stopped to see Crompton castle (closed but still beautiful to see) before our search began in earnest for our family.
Thank heaven for a GPS with the ability to locate a place using a postal code. Still, even with that, we were sure we were lost. Shane even got out and took a picture of 'Horsebridge' absolutely sure this couldn't possibly be the place. I reset the GPS and sure enough they lived somewhere around here. Now, in very (very) rural parts of England you don't just go up to the door and ring a door bell. Shane did, however, and scared the living daylights out of a poor woman doing her ironing. I believe she said the bell had never been rung before. So flustered was she that all she could stammer was that the people we were looking for were only "a hop skip and a jump down the road". Not that either of us felt like hopping and skipping in this soggy weather! So, we decided to begin at the last home and work our way back. It was the right choice as we were greeted by our gracious hosts for the next two nights.
What a wonderful experience to spend time with family we hadn't seen for over 40 years. Shane had so many questions and Robbie was more than happy to share the family history.
Though we did hike to Kitt Hill (it actually was sunny most of the next day) and explored Cotehele Castle ( a Tudor house brimming with tapestries and medieval history), Mill and Quay, our favourite part of those two days was time spent with family. We both felt so sad to leave.
On a side note I have to tell you that we have both fallen in love with clotted cream. The secret ingredient in the best mussels we've ever eaten and dessert to die for.
- comments
Yvonne I love your blog Mary - your dear siste Dorothy sent me the link and am now addicted to following your adventure. Sure widh I could get on that plane with Dorothy.