So now we near the end of the blog On Wednesday another story will begin.... but I'm getting ahead of myself.
I stated at the beginning that we were going to Sicily and Malta to learn about the Greeks. It's become pretty apparent that the Greeks are only a small part of the picture.
The great temples here in Malta were built a thousand years before the first Pyramid in Egypt. The ancient civilization of Malta seems to have stopped around 2500BC with no indication as to what happpened.
When the Greeks showed up around 700BC they made themselves at home and thus 'traceable' history began again. Phoenecians showed up shortly after and then the Carthaginians decided to use Malta as a military base for around 400 years (from the 6th century BC).
While the Maltese people seemingly disappeared the Sicels were co-existing with the Greeks until around 450BC when their hero, Ducetius, rallied the people. He did OK but those pesky Syracusian tyrants couldn't stand to be left out. They wanted a Greek Sicily to rule with Sracuse at the helm. That lasted until Athens got jealous of the growing power the so called outpost had and war broke out again. Seems the only thing Athens and Syracuse could agree on was keeping the nasty Carthaginians at bay. Meanwhile the Sicels just tried to keep out of the way.
Back in Malta the Carthaginians ruled (there was no one there to kick them out I guess) until Rome decided to move on in around 218BC.
Poor little Malta had a Byzantine and Musllim Era (AD 4th Century - 1090AD)... then, under Norman Rule, they were allowed to do their own thing (Medieval Malta 1090 - 1282AD). Nothing good lasts too long because along came the Spanish then of course the Knights of Malta, then the French then the British and then World War II!
Sicily dealt with Roman rule, an Arab invasin, Norman invasion and of course the feudan system which translates to what is now known as the Sicilian Mafia and, to top it off, World War II. That and the constant earthquakes (with ann occasional vol canic eruption thrown in) and you can understand why today they drive like there's no tomorrow!
So, from that brief history we return to present day.
What can I say about Malta?
It is a land where old women make the sign of the cross when they take a seat on the bus (coud it be a prayer to ask for a safe journey or a way of giving thanks for finding a seat?)
It is an island called Gozo where there are 28,000 people and 40 churches. Where miracles happen and crops actually find enough soil to grow.
It is a country rich in ethnic heritage where Arab names stand next to Christian names... as well as words and names from all around the Mediteranean.
It is a place where young Europeans come to party and local parengs gaze fearfully as their children look on.
It is a land of casinos and ice cream parlors next to tattoo parlors and bars.
It is a land of people almost completely reliant on the fickle tourist trade, their latest invasion.
It is a land of medieval pagents like the one we enjoyed in Mdina where, in spite of it's eastern name, we enjoyed a wonderful day of jesters, sword fighting, ferriers, music and theatre on the streets..
It is a people who work hard and have a smile ready for you.
It is bus drivers who drop you off at the Dingle Cliffs and then don't bother to come and pick you up so you have to walk in to the nearest town to get back home.

Malta is rich in history. A history so fractured and varied that it is hard to fully grasp. If you come to Malta be sure to get tickets to the Hypogeum (in advance). This was the highlight of our trip. We have seen many ancient sights but to stand in a place so complex that was built over 7000 years ago is absolutely mind boggling!

Tomorrow....southern Italy.