Day 4 in Malta and I almost lost my husband to a runaway outhouse! Honestly, does anyone else get in to such trouble?
The day started out bright and early. Woke to a sunny day and ate a sensible breakfast (yogurt and muslix). Tied up our walking shoes and got on the #49 bus to Valetta where we had an absolutely delicious cappuchino before jumping on the #11 (not #18 as we thought) heading towards Paola.
Up to this point my quest to find the spirit of Malta has resulted in some rather odd wine and a kind of run down Club Med atmosphere. I came here to learn about ancient peoples only to find Malta is to the brits what Mexico is to North Americans.....a place to let inhibitions go (which includes letting the 'girls' free), gamble (at one of the many casinos) as well as eat and drink far too much.
Now I'm not complaining, it's just that my expectations had to take a back seat to reality.
We arrived in Malta 5 hours late (flew from Sicily to Rome then back over Sicily to Malta??). Transportation from the airport was, well, disorganized to say the least. Took 1 1/2 hours to get on the bus and another hour to go the 10 km to our apartment. All along the route there are hundreds of luxury apartments being built and even more older ones that someone is trying to sell. In some cases the only revenue being generated is the rent on parking stalls in the unfinished units. In the harbours huge luxury sailboats and yachts rub shoulders with brightly painted luzzus (fishing boats). For those boating enthusiasts check out the Maltese Falcon on the web. The most luxurious boat I've ever seen!!
Our apartment is in Bugibba (north east Malta). We thought we could walk to a lot of the sights but short distances quadruple when you take in to account the shoreline.
So, by day 4 we have managed to visit the capital city of Valletta, Virttoriosa, Bugibba and the fishing village of Marsaxlokk. Buying a multi use bus pass is the way to go...though you might need a neck brace to protect yourself from the lack of suspension in the 1940's vintage carriers. Most of the bus drivers are the same vintage and just as crotchety. One driver got tired and told us to all get off and board another bus. Everyone did and no one complained?! He even shook our hands as we left. Probably a good thing he called it quits because the 20 minute smoke break he took did nothing to help his disposition.
Now Malta is a heavily populated rock. Marble and rock seem to be their major 'crop'. Taking a bus trip to the country means you actually pass a few fields with, guess what, rock walls between them. So it was no surprise when we entered our first ancient site to find out it was carved out of rock.
Hal Saflieni Hypogeum began in 5000BC. Well before the Pyramids and Stonehenge. In fact there is evidence of civilization here from around 7200BC. The Hypogeum (you must book tickets well in advance as only 10 people are allowed in at a time) is a temple dug in to the rock. It began as a place to bury the dead and after it was abandoned in 2500BC an estimated 7000 people were buried there. The third layer is the most recent at 2500BC and is the most interesting. Stone carvings and pots were found here as well. Seems the civilization vanished around 2500BC. Little is known about their life but this place is very much worth the visit.
We've also visited other ancient temple sites (Hagar Qim & Mnajdra) that date from around 3000BC. Mnajdra Temple has a central alter aligned so that the sun hits it directly (though differently) at the equinoxes.
So then fast forward to the time of the Knights of St. John and the Maltese Cross. Not only was this the hangout for the Grand Master of the Knights of St. John (and all his heavily armoured men) with all their wealth and pomp but George Bush Sr and Gorbechev met in a boat off the fishing village of Marsaxlokk to declare an end to the Cold War. Wonder if the wandered in to town and had a meal at the wonderful restaurant we found there?
Malta is not what I expected and more then I even knew. It is of such strategic importance that it was absolutely pummeled during WWII. Everyone wants it and no one knows what to do with it...kind of like having teenagers!!
Tomorrow we head off to Gozo.....
Woops... I forgot to tell you about the outhouse. After our wonderful lunch in Marsaxlokk and a wander through the market Shane said he was going to go off to visit the 'man's' room. Seems there were 2 outhouses near the market. Very convenient, however, he was inside doing his business when the thing began to shake and move. Seems they were only temporary and the truck had come to remove them. Good think Shane was able to move fast.... I'm just not sure where the lost and found is for men that get lost at the loo?? Wouldn't that have been a fun one to explain to the embassy?!
What adventures will we have tomorrow in Gozo.... stay tuned.