High winds overnight brought back memories of a past sailing trip where the anchor dragged and we spent the night trying to find safety. The Anvil Cove anchor held fast and we woke to calm seas, fog and mist. Seems strange to admit it but, for me, this is kind of a relief. Wet coastal weather is what I expected here. Certainly the dry forests could use some moisture! Another threat to the ecosystem is long periods of hot sun.

In the mist, near Langford Shoals, we spotted at least two hump backed whales. With engines shut down we spent a long time listening for the sound of hem ‘blowing’ and watching their sleek dark forms rise up as they gently feed. To see the distinct tail rise as these great forms sink to the depths is one of life’s pleasures. We know so little about the sea and it’s creatures though we claim otherwise.

Today we will motor through the mist to Skang Gwaii (formally known as Ninstints).

Houston Stewart is the name of the inlet which takes you west to Anthony Island. Skang Gwaii (Island) is where the village of Ninstints is or was.

There are so many names. So many political implications for what you call this place. In the end, who really cares? From what I understand the language is in a state of flux. New words come to light as information is brought forth. Artifacts, bones, carvings, weavings even information from early ‘western’ visitors has been taken to places like Washington DC or New York (go figure). It has taken years (and will take many more) for people to come to an understanding (or consensus) of what they have. So much has been lost. So many stories lost to theft and disease. In the end it is not the name that holds meaning as much as the number of names for a place.

How do I describe my feelings after experiencing Skang Gwaii? Colleen asked at dinner what our deepest impressions were so far. For me it was hearing (yes I said hearing) the spirits at Skang Gwaii as we walked down the path from the first long house. The spirits were loud and the light was bright around Colleen as she preceded me down the path. This was my strongest impression of the place. From that it was the ‘hollow’ sound of ancestors past. The appreciation of artists long gone and the pride of a people rediscovering themselves.

Our guide was one of the Haida who paddled the first canoe to arrive in Haida Gwaii in 100 years. From Victoria to Skidegate, landing on the shore and beginning a new chapter in the history of the Haida people. A park, a world heritage site, a future that will build on the pride of a people so decimated by disease.

For a good understanding take time to read “Raven’s Cry”. Reading that while experiencing this place certainly added to the mystique.

Wandered up to a point on the Island where early people lived in caves but the spirits weren’t as strong there.

Whales brought us in to the place and whales led us out. Now it just doesn’t get much better does it. Did I mention that the whales did get pretty close to use… perhaps 100 feet away from the ship…..and we were just drifting looking out in the distance to see where they went.

　

The next morning we woke in Harriet Harbour, a quiet little bay next to an old mining site. Watched a little black bear wander along the beach as we sipped our coffee.

With fresh cinnamon buns on their way to add chunks to my cheeks, we all got in the kayaks and headed to Boulder Island.

This is a great way to paddle (have I said that before?). Lots of time to look at the sea life, watch the birds, sea lions, seals and jumping salmon. In and out (and sometimes through) barn acle covered rocks covered in hungry starfish, muscles and sea weed. Saw lots of jelly fish along the way and black tail deer on shore. Oyster catchers , puffins, harlequin……………..etc………..etc……….etc.

At Boulder Island the Anvil Cove is anchored waiting to take us aboard. One way kayaking. Just take off and there is your bed waiting at the other end of the paddle. Great isn’t it.? Keith caught a huge cod for our dinner tomorrow night.

Turns out Keith also made delicious clam chowder and fresh bread for dinner. Between the two of them I’m going to have to change my blog title to “As the Stomach Grows!”….a soap opera with a happy ending.

Everyone went kayaking around De La Beche Inlet without me I’m afraid. Had a problem with asthma today so I chose to stay back and rest. Apparently the group spotted the rare long eared seal which really turned out to be a deer swimming. They paddled just around the bay to a few waterfalls then back to the boat.

This peaceful harbour is our home for the night.