Day 257 - The bus picked us up on time so our pork and rice takeaway we had bought had to wait. The mini-bus dropped us off at the station a few minutes later and here we boarded our bus to Sen Monorom, it was a nice big coach with air con and we comfortably tucked into our breakfast. The journey was pretty good and we made it to Sen Monorom with no problems. As we got of the bus we were handed many leaflets but the touts gave us no hassle and even explained to us they didn't want to bother us, just for us to take their leaflet and to read it. As we looked for a hotel a man on the street stopped us to ask if we were ok and he pointed us in the direction of a cheap hotel. He asked what we were doing the next day and we said EVP (Elephant Valley Project). He rolled his eyes and explained no-one in the village likes it as it takes money away from locals (the project is ran by a Brit). We listened to him and we noticed another man gave us a leaflet which explained the project is an NGO and not a private enterprise so it is actually free to visit yet they charge $60 a head. We took it on board and after we checked into a hotel we went for some tea. We researched what was said to us but we could find no more information, only amazing reviews from many sources on the EVP. It is probably true that the project takes business away from locals as it gives a completely different experience since all the local companies only offer elephant rides and treks where you ride an elephant for two hours to a waterfall then trek an hour to a village. Now although the companies deny it this is animal abuse, two people plus a sitting basket on an elephants back for 8-10 hours a day is no good for it at all. The project refuses to let customers ride the elephants and you simply follow them through the jungle observing their daily routine and watch them be elephants — exactly what we wanted to do! So we decided to stick with the EVP and enjoyed our Khmer curries. The fact they are charging a compulsory $60 however was interesting and something we intended to bring up in the morning.

Day 258- We ate breakfast in Green House restaurant where the EVP was picking us up and at half 7 the mini-van pulled up. We jumped in and met Jack Highwood, the founder of the project itself. We drove for 20 minutes past several villages to a remote location a cleared part of the jungle. Here our guide explained to us the main principles of the project. It was initially set up as a mobile veterinary service that went out to several of the villages in the area providing healthcare to domestic and captive elephants. Every village and even most families own an elephant. The local people are animist, a belief or type of religion even, where they believe everything has a spirit and therefore should be respected accordingly. The elephant spirit is hugely respected and it is almost essential for one to be present at weddings and funerals etc. However they also generate the most of a families income and up to 5-6 families can share one elephant and split the profits. They can be used in the logging or tourism industry among others. This to me contradicts their belief as they are usually overworked and even abused to work harder so not respected in the way they should be. Yet they live in poverty and need to make money and tourism is big bucks so the temptation prevails. This is where EVP comes in as it still helps families to look after elephants however the 'valley' they have rented is almost like a sanctuary where overworked elephants that have refused to work or simply broken down can come to rest. Sadly they are sometimes taken back and the cycle starts again. The EVP only rents the elephants to ensure the families still receive an income, meaning they are still owned by the family. Of the 11 elephants at the project 5 or owned and 6 rented. We walked down the very steep bank to the first smaller valley where we spotted our first Nellys! One female called Onion and one male called Bob. They were victims of the logging industry and when they stomped through the river to the bating pool we could see the scars and tell-tale signs of abuse. It was amazing to see them splashing in the pool and before long four more females came storming through and we helped to wash them in the pool throwing buckets of water over them. We then followed them through the trees and watched them munch on bamboo and leaves. It was absolutely fantastic to see them in their natural habitat simply being elephants. They seem like different animals to ones you see on TV or in a zoo even. They are beautiful beasts with lovely personalities and seeing them in real life 10 feet away was breath-taking. We followed them lumbering through the trees for around 2 hours then climbed back up the bank and over the clearing down to another forested hill until we came to the project base. It was made up of several bamboo huts and we had to wait a little while before lunch. We climbed some ladders to the chill out area and we were faced with an extraordinary view of the valley and surrounding jungle. It was a great day so far. Lunch didn't disappoint either with a buffet of stir fried tofu and veg, pork curry, pork steaks and rice with a banquet of tropical fruits. We had an hour digestion time before we descended into the second bigger valley, we trekked for 30 minutes to a small ravine where four female elephants were bathing themselves. This family were more self-sufficient and knew the ropes a bit more so the mahouts (elephant trainer) just sat at the side giving us a really intimate experience. They splished and splashed and our guide told us a few stories of the different elephants. The biggest one then came out covered in mud and had a good scratch against the trees. They told us to move out of the way if they walked past us but to stay still if they walked toward us directly, stepping back a bit to give it space. They were after all captive elephants so very used to humans and if the approach you they simply want a cuddle and some attention. Most of them are still wary of humans but this one was admitted in a better condition so its owner must have been better than most. I was standing in a small gap of trees and it stared straight at me slowly making its way toward me and I was terrified. This four tonne beast was heading for me and I didn't want to be in its way. The guide told me to stand still and it stopped inches way, I put my arm out to stroke it and couldn't believe I was stroking it with no barriers or anything. It was incredible and after a few minutes he turned away in search of more bamboo. We followed them up through the jungle and as they split up to do their own thing you would turn round to find one right behind you, it is astounding how quiet these clumsy looking giants are as they plod through the jungle. The same elephant I stroked returned for more love and we all got to stroke her, she was craving attention and we were overly grateful to give it to her. They lumbered onwards pulling up trees on the way to chew the tasty roots and leaving a trail of subtle destruction behind them. Unfortunately the time came for us to say good bye and we turned back walking through the base and climbing the steep bank to the clearing. Here we had to jump into the car with Jack as we still had to pay for the day. We considered bringing up the payment issue but even it was free we wouldn't hesitate to make the donation anyway as it is a brilliant cause and there is so much more they can do to expand and develop the project. At Green House we paid online with the card as the ATM was playing up and then we went back for a shower. We went for dinner at Green House as it was the only place in the tiny town that sold cheap food. What an amazing day!