It was farewell to Longreach this morning after a very pleasant two days in this town where every street is named after a bird. But first I greeted the day with another walk, this time following the botanical path into town. It meandered through parks and was punctuated with exercise equipment, shady seats and bubblers, as well as the lovely native plants bordering it on both sides. I followed the example of the locals I saw on the path and took a small branch of leaves to swish the flies away as I walked. Very effective. I crossed the Tropic of Capricorn at the very understated monument that marks the spot in town, then returned to the Temperate Zone to pack.

Alert to the early morning roos, we headed north where we waltzed our Matilda through Winton and just had to visit the only attraction in the world dedicated to a song. The Waltzing Matilda Centre (www.matildacentre.com.au ) was built in 1998 after the song's centenary celebrations. "And his ghost could be heard as he spoke of myths and legends ..."

I wonder if Banjo Paterson, who wrote the song in 1895, could have possibly imagined how it has continued to inspire Aussies to raise their spirits, to sing their hearts out in its rousing choruses and to even turn some to tearful fits of nostalgia.

Again, we found this to be another high quality outback attraction and were impressed with its presentation and layout. After the swagman went to all that trouble of taking a sheep, we just had to have a a lamb lunch now, didn't we? The attached cafe served up the most delicious lamb burger ever and we felt that we, too, would gladly leap into a lagoon for such a delicious meal.

It was a pity we were only passing through Winton as it was another lovely western town, proud and neat with wide streets and smartly restored buildings. But we had to move on and so turned towards Hughenden.

Today's drive was a long and lonely one, with barely another vehicle on the road and none of the quaint little towns or settlements we had seen to date to break the monotony of the drive. Nothing was between Longreach and Winton, and only two very tiny settlements were between Winton and Hughenden. The cows of Corfield were the only life we saw all the way. The Winton-Hughenden stretch was a narrower road than other parts of the trip and we were a little concerned when we passed a sign early on saying it was passable by 4 wheel drive only. Another traveller assured us it was fine - sealed road all the way except for a few short detours at roadworks. We later bumped in to this same gentleman at a pub in Hughenden in the afternoon and he told us he planned to wait and warn us if any of the detours were too boggy. Such is the kindness of the bush.

Hughenden's sky was dark with promise of rain when we arrived, but the storm rolled by and the teasing of the wind and thunder came to naught. We enjoyed, once again, the laid back feel of another friendly town as we explored the wide, uncrowded streets. The many dinosaurs that grace the town in the form of fossils and actual bones, art works and life-size replicas attest to a time when Hughenden sat on the edge of a vast prehistoric inland sea and was home to many terrestrial dinosaurs and marine reptiles.

So, now my friends, good night. To bed I go with dreams of dinosaurs and drovers in my head and of driving long and lonely roads through spectacular countryside with a tune playing in the background about a jolly swagman. He is welcome to his jumbuck, for there will be no counting sheep for me tonight. I will sleep as soon as my head hits the pillow.