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In an epic voyage of discovery in the HMS Investigator lasting from 1801 to 1803, Matthew Flinders was the first to circumnavigate the island continent known as New Holland. In an epic voyage of discovery and relaxation on the Diamond Princess lasting for a month in 2014, Reg and Laurel set off to also circumnavigate this island continent now known as Australia.
Sydney was our starting point - a beautiful city on one of the most magnificent harbours in the world. (Arthur Phillip, Commander of the First Fleet declared it the finest Harbour in the world in 1788, and a good many others continue to do so as the centuries roll on.) No matter how many times you visit this city, it still feels exciting and takes your breath away with its beauty. Yes, we have done it all before, but the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House and The Rocks and Circular Quay and the Royal Botanic Gardens and Bondi Beach still hold magic. And the beauty of having done it all before takes away some of the urgency to cram it in. Taking your time not only allows you to savour these places, but affords surprising opportunities and glimpses of things you missed in the past.
What new things did we discover this time? Heaps! Let me share a few.
We spent a couple of nights pre-cruise at the Russell Hotel in The Rocks. This was a gem of a find - a boutique hotel we booked online that was worth every cent. First of all - location, location, location! Breakfast included, free wifi, beautiful rooms and fantastic friendly service. It is a rabbit warren of rooms and hallways connecting to the Fortunes of War, Sydney's oldest pub. The site dates back to 1790 when a "Moveable Hospital for His Majesty's Distant Possessions" was erected here. The spot allowed us to explore and discover more of The Rocks area, the historic centre of old Sydney town and enjoy the great street food on sale at the weekend markets.
Our room overlooked a small paved lane called Nurses Walk, and was beside a haunted room, apparently well known for the appearances of a ghostly woman who stands solemnly at the window, her arms folded across her chest. We know this because each night a local lad stopped below the window with a walking tour group and told them this and other ghostly stories about the area. Now, I evesdropped unseen on the first night, but couldn't hear too clearly, so I poked my head out the window and that's when the screaming started. Apparently I startled quite a few of the tour group who had become caught up in the stories. I told them they were lucky it was me and not my husband who had poked his head out. Then they really would have something to scream about. When I heard the same voice the next night telling the same stories to a new group, well the urge was too great to resist. When the story got to the really spooky part I popped my head out the window and wailed. More screams than the night before. That was fun and we hadn't even had to leave the hotel.
During the day we set about activities less scary, but no less fun. Our first day was spent roaming The Rocks, enjoying the beautiful old sandstone buildings and cobblestoned lane ways and taking time to read the well signed points of historical significance. This is the site of original European settlement, the history nestling well modern life. Here art galleries abound and the shopping is expensive. And all the while, the waters of the magnificent harbour lap at its edges and the Harbour Bridge looms above its buildings.
We feasted well in the famous weekend street markets with our top vote going to the delicious, to die for, Turkish gozleme, pita bread stuffed with spinach, cheese and beef. It washed down well with an icy cold beer and a chat to a friendly Swiss couple as we sat enjoying the sunshine.
That evening we walked through the inner city streets as the outdoor bars came to life with Friday night fever - locals loudly letting off steam and celebrating the end of the work week. Christmas is in the air as the streets come alive with bright red and green decorations and the tree is being erected in Martin Place outside City Hall.
Day 2 saw us taking a bus to Bondi. Although cloudy, the sweep of white sand was still perfect for enjoying a walk. The many cafes overlooking the beach provide an ideal vantage point from which to watch the swimmers, the surfers, the sun worshippers and the hunky, bronzed lifesavers you have all seen on Bondi Rescue. We dragged ourselves away from all this and went on a spectacular walk along the cliffs from Bondi to Bronte. Sadly we just missed the famous annual Sculpture by the Sea event. Last week there were over 100 contemporary sculptures along the walk, but we did not feel cheated. The natural landscape of the cliffs and rocks sculptured by wind and water were also amazing.
Our afternoon was spent wandering around Circular Quay, ogling the famous Opera House and strolling through the Royal Botanic Gardens, which hug the Harbour around Farm Cove and Wooloomooloo Bay. And within this very peaceful haven we discovered many mini peaceful havens, one of which was Government House. Although fenced off, the gate is open and entry is free. The buildings are stately, with the main one looking much like an old English castle. The gardens were truly lovely and provided many wonderful views of the water and the Opera House. My favourite spot was a patch of bright red poppies dancing in the breeze and a pertinent reminder of Rememberance Day just passed.
On our way back around Circular Quay we enjoyed "Writers Walk", taking time to read quotes from famous writers and poets captured in bronze plaques along the pavement. Both Reg and I found perfect epitaphs there. Mine is from "The Chapel Perilous" by Dorothy Stewart - "I had a tremendous world in my head, and more than three-quarters of it will be buried with me." Reg's, on the other hand is more earthy. His is from a poem by Barry Humphreys -
"I think that I could never spy
A poem lovely as a pie.
A banquet in a single course
Blushing with rich tomato sauce."
Day 3 we awoke to showers, but there is something attractive about grey skies and rain washed streets. We plan to do a little more exploring, perhaps Darling Harbour, before boarding our ship this afternoon and sailing away. The Diamond Princess is towering over the docks at present, just a hop, skip and a jump away from our hotel. So, for now, farewell from Sydney. Our first port of call is Hobart in a few day's time.
- comments
Margot What a great start to your holiday. I love your blogs