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From cruise avoider to cruise addict in a few short years - oh how time changes us. Whereas I was once excited about planning and executing all travel details I am now happy to take the easier, more carefree road, or should I say, wave.
Michael and Murray joined us on this trip. P&O cruises leave from Brisbane regularly and a short, inexpensive break suited us now that we are able to take advantage of non-peak travel times. We took to the high seas on the Pacific Dawn to Noumea, Lifou and Port Vila, leaving Brisbane on a blustery, chilly summer day, so windy in fact that we could not sail from port until after dark when the wind strength lowered.
Delayed travel departure? Not a problem. No connections to be made, no plans to adjust. Our holiday had started the moment we stepped aboard, so we enjoyed the city scape and the wind whipping down the river without a concern. In fact, it was lovely. The flowering jacaranda trees splashed purple patches along the river and through the city and, as the sun sank in the west, the buildings shimmered in that glorious golden glow that only certain sunsets create.
Night fell, and with it so did the wind. We set sail as the lights of Brisbane twinkled below and the stars winked above, floated past the feeding frenzy and carnival atmosphere of Eat Street, drifted under the Gateway Bridge, curved and sparkling like a jewel encrusted tiara, and headed on out to ecsta-sea.
Despite sailing at increased speed over the next two days and nights to try to make up lost time, we arrived in Noumea in the late afternoon when the city had closed down for the day. We walked the empty streets past parks, churches and shop fronts, but found nothing open at all.
Noumea is the Capital of New Caledonia, a French overseas territory, and feels very much like the French territories of islands in the Caribbean such as Guadeloupe and Martinique. Just as in the Caribbean, I imagine it is alive and colourful during the day, but at closing time the metal shutters come down and it becomes a drab, deserted place.
Lifou, our next stop, proved more inviting. Also a part of New Caledonia, it is the largest island in the archipelago of coral atolls known as the Loyalty Islands. Murray and I set off on foot to explore this sparsely populated place while Michael lolled on the beach and Reg remained on board the ship. We climbed to a newly renovated church set atop cliffs overlooking the bay where the cruise ship lay at anchor. The view was spectacular, although we had only climbed 800 feet. The church, along with another down in a small village on the flats, was built by convicts and natives of the island in the mid-1800s when Catholic missionaries arrived. Whaling and timber were the main industries during the nineteenth century, but today copra and tourism rule.
Murray and I had a marvelous time exploring the quiet countryside, taking side tracks down to beautiful little coves of sandy beaches and turquoise water and generally feeling the peacefulness of this place. A relaxing massage and a cold beer back at the landing beach rounded off our short stay very nicely.
Our third port of call was Port Vila, the capital of Vanuatu, another sleepy, laid back tropical island of the Pacific. If you ever do this cruise, save your shopping till here. Duty free alcohol is cheapest by far and the clothing and souvenirs are more reasonably priced and more varied than the other two stops.
So, three ports of call and four sea days later we arrived back in Brisbane. To be honest, this cruise ship has been my least favourite of all ships I have sailed on and I probably won't choose another P&O holiday. The food was very mediocre in comparison to other lines and the free dining options were limited pretty much to one a la carte restaurant and the buffet. The buffet was set up as a cafeteria style setting which meant lining up in long queues, passing every section of food even if you just wanted a dinner roll from the other end. Also, as you lined up upon entry you did not know what was on the menu ahead and so didn't know whether to choose the food you first passed or wait to see what was on offer further down. I much prefer the islands of similar foods set up on lines such as Norwegian and Princess.
More charges seemed to apply to other food options and activities on this ship in comparison to other cruise lines and the cost of alcohol was high without any happy hours or wine packages to entice drinkers. Perhaps this was a good thing - we drank very little on this cruise despite being accompanied by two north Queenslanders. Other gripes - activities and shows were often late starting, the air con throughout the ship was on polar ice setting so that we shivered our way through this tropical cruise, the gym hours were not early enough and if you happened to be feeling peckish after 9:30 at night, then tough luck people - food is finished (unless you are willing to pay at the coffee shop.)
On the plus side, however, the cabins were excellent with a very spacious design and plenty of storage space. The company of fellow passengers was great. We met many terrific people and we loved travelling with Murray and Michael. Their wry wit and their larriken friendliness made dining with others very entertaining indeed. Their first comments on joining a table usually drew raised eyebrows and looks of surprise. Next they drew laughter and, as the night progressed, you could see those at the table warming more and more to them, until upon leaving, a genuine delight was usually expressed at having shared the table and had such pleasure added to their day.
So, although I would not choose this line again, the holiday was fun. All holidays are to be treasured, even the not so perfect ones. I might sound a bit nit-picky about this one, but it was still better than not doing it. And cruising is still a very attractive travel option for me.
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