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Known as one of the finest medieval old towns of Northern Europe Tallinn is an absolute delight. We were warmly welcomed off the ship this morning with a brass band playing and started the day with a short bus drive to Toompea (Dome Hill) which is also called upper town. Here we started our walk past the Toompea Castle which today is the Estonian Parliament and the cathedrals (see below). We stopped to view the impressive skyline depicted by the canvas of red rooftops, slender steeples and the magnificent view out to the sea. We wander down to the old town via long leg gate and tower which date from 1380.
Built up from the 13th to 16th centuries, when Tallinn - or Reval as it was known then - was a thriving member of the Hanseatic trade league, the enclosed neighbourhood of colourful, gabled houses, half-hidden courtyards and grandiose churches is, quite rightly, known as the Old Town. It is small, compact, and very easily explored on foot. Tallinn's Old Town is divided into two areas - the lower town and the upper town (also called Toompea). The lower town (all-linn) is one of the best preserved medieval towns in Europe and has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. There has been a Town Hall in Tallinn since at least 1322 and a town square next to it ever since. The Town Hall is the only intact Gothic town hall in Northern Europe. Look closely at the top of the spire to spot the Old Thomas (in Estonian Vana Toomas) weather vane, a symbol of Tallinn who has been standing at attention here since 1530. On Town Hall Square you will also find Europe's oldest continuously-operating pharmacy the Town Council's Apothecary (open since 1422). Today it operates as a museum and modern pharmacy. Surrounding the old town are the ancient city walls which are currently being restored. Originally the almost 4 km-long limestone ancient city wall came with 8 gates and 46 towers, today about half of the wall and towers are still standing.
Katerina passage. Easily the most picturesque of Old Town's lanes, this half-hidden walkway runs behind what used to be St. Catherine's Church. It connects Vene street with Müürivahe Lane where the town's famous knit market operates. Here you will find a collection of craft workshops where artists use traditional methods to create and sell knitwear, hats, quilts, ceramics, jewellery, hand-painted silk and other wares. The workshops are housed in small, 15th- to 17th-century rooms and are easily spotted by the dolls dressed outside their doors.
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is a spectacular, onion-domed structure perched atop Toompea Hill and is Estonia's main Russian Orthodox cathedral. It's also by far the grandest, most opulent Orthodox church in Tallinn. Built in 1900, when Estonia was part of the tsarist Russian empire, the cathedral was originally intended as a symbol of the empire's dominance - both religious and political - over this increasingly unruly Baltic territory. The cathedral was dedicated to the Prince of Novgorod, Alexander Yaroslavich Nevsky, who led the famous Battle of the Ice at Lake Peipsi in 1242, which halted the German crusaders' eastward advance. Designed by respected St. Petersburg architect Mikhail Preobrazhenski, the church is richly decorated in a mixed historicist style. The church's towers' hold Tallinn's most powerful church bell ensemble consisting of 11 bells including the largest in Tallinn, weighing in at a massive 15 tonnes!!
St Mary's Cathedral. (Dome Church) The medieval church that stands at the centre of Toompea hill is one of the country's most fascinating historic attractions. Established sometime before 1233 and repeatedly rebuilt since, the church displays a mix of architectural styles. Its vaulted main body dates to the 14th century, while its Baroque tower was an addition from the late 1770s. Historically this was the church of Estonia's elite German nobles. Christian Ackermann, one of the most skilful and renowned woodcarvers in 17th - 18th century, made the pulpit (1686) and the altar (1694-1696). In addition to seeing the church's amazing interior, visitors can opt to climb the 69-metre, Baroque bell- tower for amazing views of the city. Visiting the church requires a donation. For the tower, check the posted ticket price. Entrance to both the church and the tower is restricted at the time of worship services and concerts.
Fat Margaret's Tower stands as one of the remaining defensive structures inside the old town. Built from 1511 to 1530, this hefty, round tower has a diameter of 25 metres, a height of about 20 metres, and walls up to 5 metres thick. The origins of Fat Margaret's name are a mystery. Some theories insist it was named for one of its larger cannons, while others hint at a cook called Margaret who once worked here. In any case, the tower has served a number of different functions throughout its history. It has been used a storehouse for gunpowder and weapons, and as a prison. The tower is currently closed for renovation and is due to reopen in 2019.
Holy Spirit Church. The 14th-century Holy Spirit Church is a spectacular structure. This white church with its distinctive octagonal tower stands just off Town Hall Square. The elaborate painted clock on its façade is Tallinn's oldest public timepiece, dating to the late 17th century. The church was originally founded as part of the neighbouring Holy Spirit Almshouse, which tended to the town's sick and elderly. Throughout medieval times it remained the primary church of the common folk. After the Reformation, it was here the first sermons were ever given in the Estonian language (as opposed to German), and a catechism published in 1535 by the church's pastor Johann Koell is thought to be the first book in Estonian.
Three Sisters building which is now a 5 star hotel was previously three merchant houses. The origins of these merchants' houses date back to the Middle Ages and the earliest written documentation to the 14th century, when in 1372 , Richard and Johannes Ryke (from the Dutch Ryk = rich) were recorded as the owners of the buildings on the site.
St Olaf's Church has one claim to fame. From 1549 to 1625 this 14th-century Gothic church with its 159 metre spire was the tallest building in the world.
Viru Gates This pair of picturesque, ivy-covered towers at the entrance to Viru Street is often the first (or last if you start from Toompea) glimpse visitors get of Old Town. The towers are actually only the fore gates of what was a much more complex gate system built in the 14th century. It included a large, square tower that stood father back along the street, close to where the city wall can be seen. Most of the gate was pulled down in the 1880s to make room for traffic, but these two towers remained and have since become a symbol of the town.
I am sure there is so much more to see and do in this tiny town. We certainly did not go down every little cobble stoned street but tried to see as much as possible. You could easily spend 2-3 days here exploring...
- comments
Ellen Thank you for publishing this. It was very informative and I really enjoyed reading it. Your blog has peaked my interest and I can’t wait to see these places you describe so well.
Kate Fennell Thank you Ellen. I love to explore new places and share them with everyone. Wishing you happy travels !