It seems counter-intuitive, but time seems to travel faster for when we're in the slow-lane - go figure. It's almost impossible to believe we arrived way back on the evening of 16 December.

Our stone villa is smack bang in the middle of a nature reserve (in fact the only dwelling in the nature reserve since you can't count the Ghost City of Monterano/Antica Monterano that dates back to the Bronze Age). Probably can't count the two Etruscan tombs next to the tractor shed as dwellings either. Heaven knows the strings that were pulled when it was built in the '70s, but who cares - the peace and tranquility is amazing. Speaking of slow-lanes... that describes our 'end of the lane' spot perfectly... a farmer calls Silvio trundles up occasionally... and that's about it. Having said all that, it's about 5 minutes drive to the closest living village - Canale Monterano (great bakery, bar/cafe with 90 cent cappuccinos and a friendly pharmacy). Beyond that it's another 5 minutes to our closest town - Manziana (mobile phone shop for a local SIM, train tix from the newsagent, bar/cafe with €1 cappuccinos and two excellent, large supermarkets). The most important feature of Manziana is probably the train station which is our link to the big smoke when we're in the mood. Obviously it's been getting bigger and smokier for over 2000 years, but we just can't believe how much busier Rome is since our last visit in Feb 2013 - just 5 years ago. It seems the secret is out - don't visit Rome in the blisteringly hot crazy times in Summer - come in the quiet, queue-less Winter period. Not so quiet anymore obviously.

It takes around an hour and 30 minutes each way/3 hours return to reach Rome. We've been in a couple of times since we arrived and it takes a couple of days to recover from all the sightseeing and walking. Not to mention visiting our 'hood of Manzoni, 2 stops from Termini Station, for our fave restaurants - all you can order Japanese food for €16/head. Sigh... fabulous - it has after-all been around 4 months since we last indulged in Japanese, way back in Paris.

Well that's all big picture stuff. We've had many beautiful sunny days devoted to sitting outside, reading, playing with our massive Marramano/Italian sheep guardian dogs, puttering in the vege patch, the odd coffee in the village. Even had a day when it did nothing but pour torrential rain on us and howling winds ripped around the reserve. Thankfully only one of those.

One of the main highlights of the stay so far was actually on our first full day. On the 17th we drove a long way to get a short distance (as the crow flies). We headed to the Antica Monterano ruins, easily visible from the house, for the living nativity & medieval festival - in Italian - the presepe vivente. We really didn't know what to expect but our owners said it would be brilliant - and it was. The antica Monterano (or ghost city/village of Monterano had a human settlement as far back as the bronze age. It was a flourishing town during the Etruscan period and gained it's name in the Roman period - Manturanum - there are even the remnants of an aqueduct (pictured). The castle has been redeveloped over the centuries, most recently in the Baroque period in 1679 when the prince commissioned the sculptor Bernini to redesign and remake the fortress into a modern palace with a beautiful fountain and a sculpted lion. San Bonaventura's monastery was built around the same time and sits on a plain a short way from the castle - it is within the monastery ruins that the living nativity is set with costumed Mary and Joseph - though no baby Jesus as it was freezing! In the century following the fortress's renovation, power and commercial importance shifted from the town and in 1799, after a fight between two families, the French ransacked the town. Shortly thereafter there was an outbreak of malaria and the town was abandoned in short order. It was said that the brutality of the French and the destruction of almost everything meant it was cheaper to up-sticks and move elsewhere rather than to rebuild. The ruins have aged well and apparently even featured in the movie Ben Hur in 1959. They are certainly lovely to see from the villa, golden in late afternoon sunshine.

After some local orientation on Monday (fine... but freezing!) we headed to Rome on Tuesday for our first day trip. In all our travels in all the world we find the most adept, adaptable and skilled scammers, con artists and thieves are located in Italy. Which given the places we've been, is saying something. We read about a poet who lived elsewhere in Italy and he never looked forward to going to Rome because of the thieves. That was 2000 years ago and little has changed. In fact, within 20 minutes of walking out of the Ostiense train and heading into town on foot, we were passing by the Terme di Caracalla - the ruins of an ancient Roman bathing complex. We visited it a few years ago and know that tourists must walk around it often as it is a fenced site and it can take a while to find the entry gate. In any event we were tootling along - great day for a walk and only 3 km to lunch destination. A small blue hatchback pulled over near us and an elderly Italian gent waved a map and asked for directions to the Colosseum. Seemed harmless enough - nice chap - Marco - worked for Ferrari based in Milan - down on business... peeved that the crappy rental the company had got him didn't have a full tank of gas when he picked it up... We pointed him in the right direction. Guess what?! He loves Australians - he has family in Melbourne! (That would be building rapport & trust.) He wants to give us a small gift in thanks - but we must promise faithfully not to sell it, even though it's 'worth' €900... He hands James a little gift bag from the back of the car - Wow! a beautiful watch in a polished wooden box. Gee thanks Mister Marco - enjoy your day... And we walk off. PANIC STATIONS! Surely you can spare a few euros so I can get petrol? (Sheesh - these Ferrari guys just aren't paid much are they.) Now we have been exposed to scams here and there and whilst we like to have faith in human nature, we have more faith in the art of the con. When we go into Rome for the day we have very little cash on hand and have it stashed in 2-3 different places between us. That day was no exception and we had a total of €40 and a couple of credit cards along with our train tix to get home. I knew lunch would be €34 - assuming they didn't take card - James suggested a tenner... I said I could spare five at the most - but surely enough to get him to a petrol station... I even got the €5 out - Never let it be said we don't play the game. Marco was looking even more devastated at this point - surely in view of his luxurious and generous 'gift' we could see our way clear to give him €50? €40? €30? Nope. We handed him back his gift and he drove off to greener pastures - truly a stunning take on the traditional Gold Ring Scam of Paris fame. This is the No. 1 scam in Rome at the moment - apparently figures of €50-200 for petrol aren't unheard of. We've also heard of this one being done more commonly by Versacci/Gucci/Louis Vuitton reps (jackets and suits instead of watches) - again - mustn't sell them! Or the watch salesman who's just been to a trade show and wants to clear out his stock on the cheap so he doesn't have to pay taxes when he returns to Geneva... In fact for sheer entertainment, Google 'Rome Scams' - it kept us entertained for a couple of hours.

Con artists aside it was a cracking day and we had a wonderful feast at a new Japanese 'all you can order' spot near Manzoni metro. From there we had a wander around the Trevi Fountain, The Spanish Steps, assorted sculptures and fountains and eventually ended up exploring the maze of designer-strewn streets near the Spanish Steps - including the famous Via Condottei - which I'd heard of, but not seen before. Wow... so much bling - Cartier, Bulgari - the works. Preciousssssss... And only got hit up by the petition scam once (anti-drugs charity - yeah right). Lots of lovely and very large security personnel on the Via Condottei.

After this massive day out we eventually made it back to the relative safety of the countryside and headed out for pizza at a local wood-fired pizza joint (it's Italy - is there any other kind?) Will definitely make it there again at some point. Wednesday the 20th? It was 'RRD' - Rome Recovery Day. We have taken relaxation to new heights.

On the 21st, well and truly settled in, we drove our owners to Rome airport (and made it home again... most favourite app? Google Maps of course). By 9.30 am, after a couple of hours in the car we were in dire need of a) a loo and b) a coffee, in that order and decided to frequent the bar in Manziana. They are definitely called bars - but are essentially cafes that serve all sorts of booze alongside the coffee and croissants and seem to be always open - not much ambience as either a bar or a cafe - but for what they charge, we really don't expect it. Relieved and fortified we went for a look around the small Thursday market. Which was a bit of an optical illusion actually - what's visible from the street was simply the tip of the iceberg and we ended up bargain hunting for an hour or more - and what bargains we did find. From the extensive tables of second hand clothes I found a great pair of cargo pants - many pockets, many zippers - even a pocket down at the ankle - somewhere for the 'emergency' €20 note. The ultimate midget-pick-pocket-proof pair of trousers. Mind you, the cats of Rome might start picking pockets next - then I'll be stuffed. James spotted the absolute bargain of the day however - another fur coat for moi! Five years ago in Florence I found my much loved 'Bugsy' bunny fur coat in a consignment shop. €70 seemed great at the time as it only weighed a kilo and was so warm and cosy - only planned to keep it for a couple of months before we continued our travels to warmer climes... Five years later, mended frequently, having travelled all over the world - (though not Africa as we'd already been and not India as we've yet to go and not Antarctic - though it is on the list!), it is still my favourite winter item. However it's just been replaced by 'Malone' - the new Bugsy. From the same company, just in a different colour and with a detachable hood. The fact that it's not falling apart is a huge bonus. The gent selling it said €30. We said Yes! (and then to each other 'Quick, get out of the shop'). Can't wait to wear it on next Roman outing. Lots of room underneath - I can hide a bag. I could probably hide my very own pickpocket actually.

On Friday 22nd, we were finally in the mood to hit the supermarket and we stocked up with goodies for Christmas - brie from France, assorted Italian cheeses, scotch from Scotland, limoncello, rum chocolates and filled raviolis - truffle, salmon etc - presumably Italian, along with some actual necessities like a couple of roast chickens, fruit, veges, yoghurt, cereal etc... 'food' vs. the priority luxuries we sorted out first. Of the two supermarkets the MD discount one is our clear favourite for price on almost everything - but Carrefour does the roast chickens and pet food.

On Christmas day we had a light lunch, luxuriating most of the day in the winter sunshine on the terrace then spent the late afternoon making the most relaxed Christmas dinner ever - Roast chicken, potato, pumpkin, onion, carrots, cabbage & garlic (from the garden), James's home made chicken gravy and a cheese plate all finished off with moscato liqueur wine and rum chocolates.

Boxing Day (or as it is in Europe, St Stephen's Day) dawned not bad and proceeded to get worse - pouring by early evening which was a shame for the second night of the living nativity over at the ruins - no fun capering about in your medieval velvet frock if you're soaking wet. It fined up with an hour or so to go - so hopefully people still went along for a look (it has one final night secheduled on 6 January - after it's all cleared away we're off to explore the ruins in daylight).

Boxing Day's heavy rain transformed the next day into a biblical deluge. If we'd spotted a gentleman of advanced years (or any old dudes really) building a boat/ark in the nature reserve, we would not have been surprised. We haven't seen rain of this nature since a monsoon hit us in Langkawi, Malaysia. The rain wasn't entertaining enough so an electrical storm and gales joined in in the afternoon. We have a stunning picture window and the weather was highly entertaining (though slightly nerve wracking... still keeping a weather eye out after Hurricane Ophelia and Storm Brian back in Ireland).

Before we knew knew it we were back to the airport on the 28th to pick up our owners - back for just 3 nights before heading to Australia. We are the most painfully on-time/early people we know, even when it's not a flight we're taking personally, so were out bright and early. Hit the bakery in the village for fresh bread and pizza bianco. The white pizza is quite yummy - just a bread/dough base glazed with olive oil and salt. 'Splurged' a couple of euros on 'due cappuccini' and bought multiple train tickets at the newsagents (as you can't buy them at the station, at all) then hit the road to the airport - which we're starting to know well.

Friday (29th) saw the sun shining brightly which was a blessed relief after the rains so we grabbed a couple of our pre-purchased 'all you can travel' tix and jumped on the 8.30 am train to Rome. Phenomenally hard frost this morning. The car was iced over and despite the sky being almost clear, crystals resembling tiny snowflakes were materialising as we stood on the platform. No wind chill though and the train was warm. Always 3 degrees warmer in Rome anyway. Despite Rome's warmer temp, the new coat still came into it's own. Vintage Rabbits Rule.

We jumped off the train near Vatican City, had a coffee then continued into St Peter's Square. The queue to enter the Basilica itself was easily 5 times larger than when we were here in winter 2013 - incredible. Obviously a 'must do' for first time visitors to Rome - but wow - hours in the queue. We felt no need to visit it again but did make a point of popping into any church we came across. Which slowed us down incredibly since there's a church seemingly every 200 metres or so. We headed first to Campo di Fiori to see the outdoor market and then on to Piazza Navona for its fabulous fountains and the Christmas market. So many stunning jewelboxs of churches - if ever there's a worldwide shortage of marble, we know where a huge amount can be found.

We eventually made it to our lunch destination by 1 pm - with feet barely holding on by a thread. After lunch we visited a shopping centre - not our usual sort of spot, but the flagship Rinascente department store on Via del Tritone has the ruins of the Virgo/Virgin Aqueduct in the basement (wow!) This aqueduct was inaugurated by Augustus in 19 BC and dedicated to feeding almost all the most imposing and grandiose fountains in the centre of Rome - including the Trevi. Whilst the credit cards just shivered nervously in the purse, we ventured up to the 7th floor rooftop terrace - positively a sky scraper in these parts - for a stunning view across Rome. What we paid for our lunch might just buy a couple of glasses of wine in this glorious spot.

Whilst we had, as usual, grand plans of taking the last train home just before 9 pm, we were both starting to flag by 3 pm and meandered along near Termini station to revisit a beautiful square (and some excellent shops we remember from 5 years ago). The Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore was just as beautiful as we remembered - but we didn't visit the church as it involved heavy security, bag scanners, metal detectors etc. Anywhere that needs that much security is no where we need to be.

In the vicinity we visited one of Rome's skankiest public parks which is also full of curiosities to see (and no I'm not talking about the suspected drug dealers). The Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele II is the largest in Rome at 316m x 174m. It runs parallel to Termini station and we went for a look primarily because of the Magic Gate/Porta Magica/Alchemica which just sounded intriguing. This monument was built (albeit as a gate to a villa elsewhere in Rome) in 1678 and now sits in this park. There are a couple of different stories about the gate - including that the inscriptions were an alchemist's recipe for gold and that the owner of the original villa had them carved into the villas gates and walls in case someone could one day translate them. The gate, with its magical inscription, is guarded by two monstrous dwarves believed to represent the ancient Egyptian divinity Bes (they also did not start out in this park). The thing that initially caught our eye however was the ruins of a monumental fountain - standing 3 stories high - The Trophy of Marius - built between 222 and 235 AD. Now just the bricks remain - but it would have once been a stunning sight, covered in glistening white marble suppled with water from an aquaduct splashing and burbling all over it. It's thought to have inspired the Baroque artists who designed the monumental mountains we can still see - like the Trevi. If it's possible to absorb to much history in one day, then we were positively waterlogged by this point. Final highlight of the day was finding a small international grocery store that sold tinned evaporated milk. Our local supermarkets have entire aisles devoted to every permutation of cooking cream (except this slightly healther one). It was a big find all things considered. Then it was down to Termini (avoiding the pickpockets, con-artists and tour-touts), onto the metro, off at Piramide (wave to the pyramid), snappy walk to Ostiense around the corner, onto our 5 pm train and finally home. Thank heavens for salmon filled ravioli sitting in the fridge awaiting minimal 'easy dinner' prep!

Saturday 30th dawned gray and cold - absolutely perfect weather for the much needed RRD (Rome Recovery Day) and we spent the day reading, watching movies and keeping warm. New Year's Eve saw us driving to Rome airport to fare our owners well on their way to Australia - the homestead is now ours for the next 2 months. It was a quiet New Year's eve at home, roaring fire and a movie and a nice dinner - lovely way to see out an the incredibly busy year 2017 - Spain, Romania, Iceland, Sweden, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, Finland, Russia, Australia, New Zealand, Belgium, France, Ireland, Croatia, Montenegro, Bosnia & Herzegovina and last but not least Italy - who knows what 2018 will bring. Buon Anno and Happy New Year from the both of us.