We drove through Lewis Pass and more murky weather to the wild frontier of the West Coast (Gold Country!), unsure of what to do or where to stay. We had arranged some WWOOFing but hadn't planned to go there for a few more days.

WWOOF (Willing Workers on Organic Farms) is a scheme whereby travellers can help out on farms in return for bed and board. There are literally hundreds of farms throughout the country and it's pretty much pot luck whether you'll find somewhere and someone fun and friendly.

We were going to have a stopover in Greymouth but it's a bit miserable and we didn't feel like spending the night there so we rang the farmer, Stu Davidson and asked if we could come early. He said "Get over here!!" so we set off down the rugged and tropical Coast and found our way to Waitaha Valley which is 10km inland. Dan had originally spoken to Stu when we were in Kaikoura. He was the first farmer we spoke to and Dan thought he sounded very easy going. It all seemed fated.

As we drove down Valley Road (weird!) looking at the farms, we wondered which would be our home for the next few days. We pulled up to a truly idyllic, picture-book and raggedy old farm both thinking "Please let it be this one!". It was just so quaint and a sheepdog and two cute cats trotted up the drive to meet us. We had a good look round but couldn't find anyone, despite the radio blaring out in the cowshed (we learnt later the music is "for the cows"...). But as it drew dark, a tractor trundled down the road with a waving figure on it and up pulled Stu. A true Kiwi if ever there was one!

The next four days were too magic and full to put into words but briefly we milked 190 Jersey cows every day, cleaned 190 sets of udders, hosed s*** and piss from 190 cows, rounded up 190 cows, fed chickens, ducks, geese, deer and a rabbit, got bitten by sandflies, moved calves, went hunting at twilight (for deer), baked scones, picked apples from the tree and made crumble, had Farmer Jim and Davey Crockett for dinner and made them Irish coffees, stroked cats, drank red wine, put a very sleepy farmer who had fallen asleep in his dinner to bed, went to see glow worms, learnt about the valley and farming and New Zealand, saw rainbows every day, laughed, did washing and made a true friend in Stu.

The photos speak for themselves. We'll never forget 'Waitaha Prison Farm'.

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