Having booked ahead for a whale watching trip and a dolphin swimming trip, we left Renwick very excited about what lay ahead at Kaikoura. Once again the weather was fab and as we arrived, we were treated to a spectacular view of the snowy Ranges. The hostel (Dusky Lodge) wasn't the most cosy or plush but it had a sauna, a hot tub and free cream cakes for some reason.

We checked in straight away at the Whale Watch and sat nervously waiting for the coach to the boat. Neither of us knew what to expect and we started to get more and more nervous, both having had bad seasickness experiences in the past. This wasn't helped when the guide informed us that the sea was calm but had a strong swell. Great! These were the exact conditions both of us had encountered during the earlier VOMIT festivals, Dan's in Mexico, mine in Morocco. I knew my number was up when, as we boarded, we learned that it was a enclosed speed boat that motored between whale locations and we not able to leave our seats inside the vessel while it was moving. NIGHTMARE. The only cure for me is being outside in the fresh air and being able to see the horizon clearly.

We motored towards the open sea and i got progressively more freaked out, claustrophobic, hot and clammy. Soon i was positively pouring with sweat. Dan didn't feel too good either and we kept our eyes fixed on the horizon, not speaking or moving, other than to momentarily groan and feign smiles at each other.

Three male (bachelor) Sperm Whales had been spotted and as we drew up to the first one, we were only in time to see the end of his tail disappear beneath the waves. We hadn't had time to get outside, but even though we just saw it briefly through the window and jostling for a view, it was very moving and i got tears in my eyes.

We motored off again to the next sighting area and were instructed to get on deck asap to get a view of the next whale. The boat was right along side the whale, as he breathed through his immense blowhole. We got loads of pics and it was fascinating. Then, with the guide shouting "Ready? watch! watch!", the great beast rose his tail high in the air and dived down into the ocean. It was incredible and despite being very green at the gills i got a great shot of his tail with the mountains in the background (see above).

This procedure carried on as we rushed in and out of the boat, to and from our seats, and sped between the sighting areas. It was manic and intense, especially with the boat buffeting up and down so stongly. Eventually it all got too much and i was very ready to throw up! Dan rushed off to get a sick bag but it was actually a faint rather than a puke and my ears rang and the white fuzz came over my eyes as stared down at the dark ocean, gripping white-knuckled to the railing. Amazingly i fought it off till Dan came back but she realised i was about to konk out (she's seen me do it before!) and got me to a seat. I was positively grey but gradually started to feel a tiny bit better.

A HUGE pod of a few hundred Dusky Dolphins was then sighted and i felt able to go to the top deck and watch them. My photos are s*** though. It was amazing and they were all around the boat but I felt so cold and jelly-legged that it was all a bit half-hearted. We sat down again and buffeted our way round the ocean some more. I managed at this point to fill a couple of sick bags with my breakfast. Ah the relief!

Dan stiffled a giggle and held up her phone to take a picture of me in my finest hour, only to drop it and grab a bag! HA! She managed not to throw but looked just as green as me. What a pair.

We bombed back to the wharf which seemed to take for ever and jelly-legged our way back to the coach finally. On dry land, as is the way, we felt a lot better and went straight to the pub for some nachos and a beer!

It's very sad and i am truly disappointed with myself, because everyone knows it was my dream, but that afternoon i cancelled the Dolphin Swim which was scheduled for the next morning. Seeing them was enough. Swimming with them in zero degree, three Empire State buildings deep black buffeting water in a wetsuit whilst probably puking is wholly unecessary i think.

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