A really daunting drive lay ahead us, through Arthurs Pass to the west coast but we knew the scenery was going to be so awesome we didn't mind. So to wake up to a huge, low bank of fog in Christchurch was a bit annoying! But we hit the road and it all just cleared away and we were treated to the Greatest Show on Earth!

The Southern Alps run the length of the S Island and we drove straight across them, gawping in wonder. It was truly magical. Stopping to take photos simply has to be factored in to your travelling time, as around each corner is yet another stunning view. We did get overloaded for sure - "I'm bored of gorges now", was heard to be said at onepoint. But James brought a magical device from heaven - a gadget that lets you plug your iPod into the cassette player in your car! Wow. So we've listened to endless Prince and David Bowie and other sounds appropriate for the epic scenes outside our window.

The Tasman coast is stunning too and as we pulled up at our amazing hostel, The Beach Hostel (which was right on the beach funnily enough) we saw a dolphin leap out the water and land with a splash. Ok. We've struck gold yet again. Our "room" was actually the "Sleepout", a hut seperate from the rest of the hostel and facing right to the sea. We were too giddy for words, not knowing what to do first - eat, drink, swim, go in the hottub? We had fish and chips and star and moon-gazed and drank wine and fell asleep listening to the surf.

Due to a bad back, i was up and wide awake early and we took our cups of tea to the beach and ONCE AGAIN had a dolphin show put on for us. A group of four or five dusky dolphins were just right in front of us, leaping and playing together in the morning light. It was magical.

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