FIRE!

November 2nd 2008

The flight schedules have been changed for Christmas, so we needed to visit an Air Nuiguini office to get our tickets changed.The choice was Goroka or Mount Hagen, so we opted for the latter, as we've only been there once before, and that was when I sprained my ankle.We planned to visit the market, which is allegedly the best in the region and we'd heard a rumour that not only was there rhubarb available but asparagus too!!After sorting our tickets, we planned a trip to a hardware store to buy a pair of scales and then finish at The Highlander Hotel, where we would treat ourselves to lunch.We decided Mount Hagen couldn't be unlucky for us again - how wrong we were!

We caught a PMV and had two attempted hold ups on the way.The first one was a band of youths, one of which wielded a knife in the middle of the road, so the driver drove straight at him and he shifted pronto.Then there were some ragged hoards on a bridge, who looked threatening, but thankfully waved us through.As we approached Hagen, we noticed a big cloud of smoke hanging on the horizon.On closer inspection and after making enquiries, we found out it was the Provincial Government buildings which had burnt down and only a smoking shell remained.We got off the bus and there was a very tense atmosphere hanging over the town - folk just standing around, watching.

We discovered the fire had started around midnight but couldn't be put out because apparently the fire hoses didn't work!Then ensued the inevitable fighting of course, with everyone blaming everyone else.We decided to do our shopping and then have a quick lunch and depart swiftly, leaving the market for another time, as it's a bit dodgy on a good day!We found the Air Nuiguini offices and guess what - they, plus many other offices and shops were closed, because of the fire and the unrest it had caused.So we had undertaken the journey for nothing!We had some success though in finding some decent scales and bought some reasonable meat and a few other provisions which we can't get in Kundiawa.I alighted with great glee on a small jar of Branstone pickle and then spied the price - over £5.00!! Needless to say, we resisted!

We were determined to have at least a decent cup of coffee before our homeward two hour journey and on our way to The Highlander, we spoke to some police in a vehicle, having been told by a store assistant that there were road blocks on the road to Kundiawa (there is only one road into and out of Hagen which is the main highway connecting the coast to the highlands).The police said they couldn't guarantee our safety, but advised us to go to the police station for an update before we left.We got to the Highlander and I spoke to the manager who remembered us and had been very kind during the ankle sprain debacle.He spoke to a man who owns a fleet of trucks transporting lamb flaps (dog food disguised as human meat) throughout the region.He said according to his drivers, there were 4 or 5 road blocks between Mt Hagen and Kundiawa and he had taken his lorries off the road, as there was looting going on at the roadblocks.He advised us not to make the journey, so I was on my way to see if there were any rooms available for the night, when the manager introduced me to two beefy looking blokes.They said they worked for the Health Service and had information that the road was now clear.They had 2 land cruisers with radio contact and were grimly determined to make it to Goroka and so offered us a lift.We didn't think twice, all thoughts of our lovely lunch forgotten, as they were leaving in the next few minutes.One land cruiser went in front and said he would radio us if there was any trouble ahead and we went in the second one.Apart from completing the journey at breakneck speed (the usual 2 hour journey took just over the hour!), we arrived in Kundiawa safe and sound, if somewhat shaken up and read all about it in the paper the next day.Of course there are all sorts of rumours about arson and plots, but to date, I don't think anyone knows how it happened.

School is as chaotic as ever.Grade 10 exams finished on Thursday, so Friday was meant to be a normal working day and most of Grade 9 students came to school, (bear in mind that some of them walk for hours up and down mountains to get to school!).That's more than two thirds of the teachers did.Apparently they were tired, having invigilated exams for 4 days!Exhausting work!! So Grade 9 sat mostly unattended by teachers for the morning, for although there were enough teachers to cover the classes , they have no concept of covering for absent teachers, so if they weren't timetabled to take a class, and the teacher who was, wasn't there, then that's just tough!

I went into two classes and did a bit of poetry with them (they are such a delight and so eager to learn) and was having a real good time with my third class, when the head said the students were restless (i.e. they didn't have any teachers) so he was sending them home!!! I said to him, this class isn't restless at all, but he just waddled away.I all but exploded!! He actually had the ludicrous neck to tell the students in assembly that they must attend school at all times, as they were not on holiday (just the teachers methinks!)We've heard no more about the teachers striking - we might have some sympathy for them if they earned the money they already get.Yesterday (Monday) the students were sent home early again - the teachers were confused because no-one had rung the gong (bell to signal lesson start and finish) and there were only 13 out of 64 classes who had a teacher!The other day, we found one of the teachers, during the school day, sitting on the market selling betel nuts!Pay rise?!! Sacking more likely!Still, some schools are worse off.At the one where a student was shot recently, apparently the teacher who wrestled the shotgun that killed the student from the policeman who did the shooting, is now being charged with attempted murder - a police stitch up would you say?The head of the school has been suspended, not just because he allowed the students to riot in the first place, but he has also run up a deficit of 350,000 Kina for the school (that's the equivalent of about £70,000). It's a boarding school, so it may have to close early because electricity cannot be paid for and also no food for the students.

Our Mr Notaclue outdid himself on Friday.He has been keeping a record of teacher absence (John drew up the sheets for him, reminds him to do it and often fills it in for him), so that excessive absences can be reported to the Education Officers (not that it will make a blind bit of difference of course).John asked him for Friday's sheet.Not only couldn't he find it but he'd lost the whole b.......y folder containing all the sheets for the term!(Could it have been fingered I ask?) Unfortunately, the steam has dried up from John's ears, so he may have to resort to using a machete to let off steam in the future!

We decided to harvest some of our avocados, and set about trying to ease the branches to within reach with a spade.Within minutes, a young boy appeared and offered to climb the tree for us, which he did, so we now have copious amounts of avocados.Apart from guacamole and in salads, what else can you do with avocados apart from give them away of course?Suggestions welcome.The head made a suggestion after John had given him a pot of jam.Why doesn't John hold jam making classes for the local mothers!!His face was a picture - can you imagine!I had success at last with the bread maker.The electricity stayed on for long enough yesterday for me to make some cheese and onion bread.It tasted delicious, although it collapsed a bit in the middle.I've since discovered that this can happen at high altitude, as the yeast makes the dough to rise too much and so causes it to collapse - the solution is to use less yeast, so that I shall try at my next attempt.We bought some decent looking mince in Hagen and I made spaghetti bolognaise and tonight, having found some lasagne in Hagen, it's lasagne on the menu with a salad made from our home grown lettuces and of course, avocado!

England and PNG played against each other in the Rugby League World Cup in Australia on Saturday.John toyed with the idea of going to watch it at a local hostelry, but thankfully decided against it, in case England won, which they did 33 - 22.Lots of emotions were released and the teachers told us on Monday that if the game had been played in PNG, the ref would have been killed, as it was his fault they lost!At a local game recently, the linesman had his throat cut as a result of a decision someone didn't like - no messing here I tell you!We've been having great trouble accessing e-mail recently and making phone calls between the hours of 4pm and 8am (we're now 10 hours ahead of you, with the clocks going back).An obnoxious woman announces 'Due to a technical failure, you cannot be connected to the number you require - please try again later.'You will appreciate, this can get somewhat wearing and we have christened her 'the b****!'So our morning conversation goes something like, 'John, go and see if 'the b****' has cleared off yet!!' We are in the third week of this now, so John went into the Telecom offices to enquire what the problem was.He was told that raskals had gone 'antap mountain' and pinched the batteries in the transmission station!So the only power available was solar power.John offered to lend the woman some batteries, but she wasn't amused.You might expect they would have some in reserve in the event of a problem, but come on - this is PNG!!

Right, full of confidence, I'm now off to attempt a wholemeal loaf in the bread maker.Hopefully the electricity will hold out for that long, but hey, we've got water, so life is sweet.Then, we shall go to the market and buy some gorgeous fruits, finishing up with a cup of coffee at the coffee shop.They do a half reasonable cup there, with the odd cockroach on the side (no extra charge).Only 32 days till we come home for Christmas - we're excited already!

Love to all

XX