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Encountered Dave Langer of big wave riding fame today. He has been in Puerto for 3 months riding giants, but since there is no real swell right now he offered to tow us into some shore break for fun...
It was awesome.
I have never been beat so severely by a wave. The addition of about 100 HP to this wave is not really necessary...but occasionally massive excess is the only answer. A la bullfights on acid..which I would tell you about if I had experienced it.
The speed of the ski allows you to actually get onto the waves a little early which is nice since they jack up to vertical in about 1/2 second, but it also puts you into some truly strange places...places you could never get to under paddle power.... like 30 ft deep in a closeout barrel. Sorry no footage... I was too busy getting my ass kicked.
http://www.boardsportsvideos.com/January_10_The_Biggest_Day_Ever_Surfed_DVD_p/jand1_mm.htm
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Abel > h.e.r.v.e : la ve9rite9 vraie c'est que :- j'ai eu une envie irresistible de deessnir un cre2ne ( le post d'aujourd'hui est parti de le0 en fait ) - mon post pour la news , j'avais pre9pare9 deux post diffe9rents , j'ai longtemps he9site9 et puis finalement je ne posterai aucun des deux :D D'of9 la pre9paration d'une nouvelle nouvelle version qu'il me reste donc e0 faire .- et puis de toutes fae7ons , tout le monde ( ou presque ), sera e0 la plage ce week end ...C'est peut-eatre un SETI que j'aurai du pre9parer tiens :)