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For those who were wondering, a prudent estimation of the average driving speed on the Mex 200 through michoacan and guerrero is 490 mi per 15 hours. This estimation will more or less include traffic in Acapulco, encountering freeways which abruptly dead end and road construction. Military stops too. At any rate we made it from neixpa to puerto Escondido.
On road construction. The MO here seems to be that if it doesn't need to be repaired it at least needs to completely rebuilt about 50 ft over. The detours are pretty much dozer paths to the right or left or both ( follow the most worn in path) of the construction, and you better Mind your Ps and Qs in there because because marking 10'holes and stabilizing slopes
would only encourage the weak to thrive, and this is no place for the lowest common denominator (see Guerrero dogs later)
On traffic laws: they are much more like traffic recommendations, so a good offense is really all that is required. This being the case, the only way to get people to slow down in the pueblos is to install 5-6 of the most bone rattling speed bumps (reductors, or topes) along the freeway as it passes through the town. They can be made of anything...but the best ones are either 2' high or have nearly 8" vertical faces perpendicular to the direction of travel.
Also adding unmarked or unpainted topes on the freeway in random places will encourage lower speeds of travel in general. Although these eventually become marked ( to the savvy driver) by 100' skid marks located in the approach.
Lucky for me, my shocks were already shot when I got here, and in a curious twist, Mexicans will also accept airborne vehicular entry into pueblos with gusto.
In summary of recent travels. Left Ticla again to go to Tecoman, to investigate the loose steering phenomenon in the truck...thought I had a bad bushing, however this turned out not to be the case and I was once again reminded that the overwhelming specialty here is restorative and not preventative...
The bushing looked fine, Toyota Colima wanted 16,000 p for an entirely new steering rack ( sounds like a dealer right?), and the actual free play in the wheel is within tolerance... This according to some digital tech manual I
Was shown. Unclear whether the Tolerance is toyota's or mexicos...seems like maybe a u joint now... But again why look for problems, they will find you soon enough.
Visited boca de pascuales to witness more thundering death waves. Did not surf on account of pretty shady conditions, watched some cracked individuals paddle out though. Pascuales is famous for being a less crowded puerto Escondido, which is famous for being like Hawaii's pipeline, which is famous for being a gigantic barreling man eater....all three places are termed heavy, mainly because when they break they don't dissipate any energy in crumble or tumble at all, the entire thickness of the lip of the wave, which can be measured in feet, is thrown so far shoreward that when it reconnects with the ocean, it does so with a huge vertical component, in a zone that as a surfer you want to linger only a few feet away from. Getting caught between this zone and the shore is both highly undesirable, and highly likely.
These waves can also be described as board breakers, or even more accurately as put by one of the locals (a cracked individual) pascuales eeez pascuales.
In actuality most of local pascuales characters seemed to be literally on crack. Addled would describe their general mannerisms, oddly beaded sweat their appearances, and overly forthcoming their conversation... The individual quoted above (eeeez) was the spitting human image of wile e coyote just before a piano falls on him... The chef/waiter here was the token gay prison Mexican ( painted eyebrows, tshirt tied in a knot to expose belly and swagger) and they all seemed to have synchronized their oral herpes outbreaks.
The rooms had ac, which was divine.
Last ticla note: a wrist rocket or slingshot is highly recommended here. Science will back me in the statement that stress can be reduced with an elevated sense of control, which is exactly what a projectile will provide in the realm of renegade roosters. I know it's a lot to put on a chicken, but I am pretty sure that they understood their new boundaries in terms of my firing radius after only one day.
Side note: shots were neither lethal or debilitating. One was possibly sterilizing...
Side side note: the most satisfying shot of the whole trip so far was actually inflicted on a stocky little dog who made the mistake of charging camp and serial peeing on everything. There is a good chance I got him in the balls. all dogs in mexico cart around Herculean sacks behind them. The sound he made was not a yelp or cry or howl, it was a loud combination of a short cough, and "ga". Indignation and shock perfectly exemplified in sound. If I could thank that dog I would, buuuuut I would also let him have another one as he left.
Travelled south to neixpa with our three Israeli friends. Fairly uneventful. Left my travel binder on the hood after one military stop, only to spread all of my important docs on the Mex 200...got it all back... I hope.
Nexpa: awesome point break, big waves, 2.5x overhead at best, but will not cut you in half, this wave is like a gigantic mellow ramp, with a white wash not hell bent on raping you. a very long paddle out but the chance at 200-300 yd rides. The place had about 12 more Israelis staying there, one S African, and a few Americans. By far the most crowded place i had been. Also most expensive.
Rented a cabana on the beach for 100p per person per night. Ended up neighbors with a classic ex pat named deano. He was on his 30 th trip to neixpa and been there for three months already. I usually made myself available to listen to his ramblings... He definitely had some stored up. Gerod nailed this character with the following question: " how many times you think that guy's been divorced?"
my guess was 30.
Political views and business advice aside, deano was a wealth of local information.
The cartels are split into families, the Zetas in ticla and the knights of Templar in neixpa, they are more or less a security force for everyone provided their extortion rackets are going well in the areas. They also sell all the drugs, which they treat more or less like a service industry. Violence, ripoffs, bad drugs means low sales, so they generally try to keep things tranquilo.
most violence is intermafia, or mafia military.
US renegades are actually the wildcards here. Years ago a local guy from Around neixpa killed a man in Texas and escaped back over the border. He started a family and worked in neixpa as a restauranteur, that is until the US gunslinger came into to town. The Mexican got the jump on the hired gun and confronted him with a shotgun. The man pleaded innocence saying he was just looking a for a place to rest for the night, but the Mexican wouldn't have it and fired a shot into the gunslingers floorboard...after unloading a clip into the freshly disadvantaged Mexican gunslinger drove off, presumably to collect his reward. There used to be a marker at this spot, but it is gone now.
Good food at the restaurant.
In another instance of sensational behavior, There was a different US renegade holed up in neixpa amicably for a time, until he raped one of the local girls on the beach.
A local badass with a gun, was recruited and the renegade was run out of town so hastily he left his passport and all other belongings in neixpa. The renegade was hitch hiking away and got caught by the military with a kilo of cocaine. He along with the two unfortunates who picked him up went to jail. In jail he got a job tending chickens, this turned out to be fortunate
Turn for him, as he was soon tapped by incarcerated cartel members to collect the weapons they were smuggling into the prison in the chicken hay. In exchange they let him come along when they eventually shot their way out. The entire story was related back to the neixpa locals when the newly freed renegade returned months after his expulsion to reclaim his passport. No word on his current whereabouts, given his history, I think dead is likely.
Currently I am in puerto Escondido, which is an awesome Surf town with huge waves and again.... Tons more Israelis. I traveled here with two new Israelis I met in neixpa they both spent there military time in the athletes program. He used to be second in the world in competitive windsurfing and she was 2nd in Europe. In addition they are good people.
Surfed this morning in what is supposed to be really small conditions. This place does not f around.
On Guerrero: drove the entire state in one day, seemed to be a big increase in dogs, especially road dogs. your typical Mexican dog I think actually looks both ways before he crosses the road, not so in Guerrero. I saw some of the most brutally eviscerated roadkill ever, truly gruesome, one unfortunate hound took it right in the head, and when I came upon him he was staring at me as if mid yowl, only his whole face was contorted and looked like a canine version of "the scream" pardon... " the yowl" it was truly haunting.
Major increase in road donkeys and road pigs too. No deaths to report though.
On israelis: It is actually a little unclear if the Israelis all know one another or not, they seem to be able to identify each other by sight, and they all say something ( unknown) to each other when they pass by, but if pressed for details about the encounters they usually just wave it off.
My current room mate is an Israeli Olympic windsurfer. ( I now know three competitive windsurfers) but I have no idea who knows him. Seems like a good dude.
Sorry for the long delay in posting. The wifi gods must have been displeased, although there is no shortage in puerto.
Paz amigos
Joe
- comments
Alison I enjoyed reading side side note. Sounds like ya got em good right in the "teachable moment." So satisfying. Great to read your blog, Joe. We're all a bunch of blog junkies at this point.
joemonson Glad you are enjoying it. I'm having a really good time writing it...good time living it too.