Fri 22nd

Felt better today so went off to explore Cusco in between being trampled on by all the demonstrators and the police. The cathedral was open but you had to knock the door and it was opened an inch. If they liked the look of you, you got in. We got in so we couldn't have looked too threatening. The cathedral in Cusco is magnificient. There are many different chapels and the main altar is quite stunning. We then went on to Saint Domingo church and convent. It was one of the most impressive buildings during the Inca period. It's walls were coverd with gold and it was the main temple dedicated to the sun god. When the Spanish came they built a Dominican convent and church over the original sructure. These buildings were destroyed by an earthquake in 1650 and rebuilt in 1681. It's still pretty impressive. I could have spent more time there. Anyway, it was then time to hit San Blas, the artisans' quarter at the top of a very steep hill (so we took a taxi - at about 25p it was silly not to!). The artisans who live in this quarter produce the most wonderful, intricate Peruvian tapestries, Alpaca sweaters, bags, silver jewellery and leather work. I could have spent pounds as it is all such wonderful quality and so cheap. Anyway, sense prevailed. About six sweaters later plus loads of other bits we went back to our hotel and then dinner. Somehow or other I have to pack all this stuff I am buying. It is very cheap to buy but prohibitive to post home - 2 kgs for about £18........

Sat

Tolday we set off by train (run by Orient Express) to Agua Calientes. It was an early start in pouring rain. But a super vista dome train, a very nice` breakfast and fabulous scenery made it all worth while. Aguas Calientes is describd`in most of the travel books as just being a stopping off point for Machu iPicchu. I thought it deserved better than that. It is a quaint little town, a town square, lots of little streets like a maze and some thermal springs. Had an Inca masssage (one hour for £5) then went to the thermal springs. It's interesting sitting in hot springs whilst the heavens open above you - still we couldn't get any wetter.

Sun

Only two of our party (me and Robin from South Africa) wanted to get up early (0445) to get to the Sun Gate at Machu Picchu to see sun rise. The rest came later. Rob and I caught the bus (along with about 500 other people). It follows a tortorous route up the mountain side into the clouds. We were on the site by 0600 - but no sun rise, just heavy rain, mist off the mountains and people appearing out of the fog like ghosts. Still at least we got there early and had a good two hours on our own before the first train loads arrived. The sun did`come out and the site was everything and more I hoped it would be. It was quite special being there. We had a guided tour and our guide made the whole placed`come alive. Back to Agua Calintes then train to Ollantaytambo then a coach trip through the Sacred`Valley. then back to Cusco. A day I will always remember.

Mon.

Flew from Cusco to Lima then went to stay with Helen, who has a rented penthous apartment overlooking the sea at Miraflores. Nice to stop for three days, gather my thoughts (and my washing) and catch up. She is great fun and I have very much enjoyed her company. Off to Quito tomorrow in Ecuador then fly to Galapagos Islands for one month to look after giant tortoises. Goodness knows what I'll be doling with them - watch this space.