Towards Civilisation

As we headed further south, we could see we were getting past the wild outback lands and closer to civilization. No more the arid scrub with sprinklings of wildflowers, we were now driving through manicured fields and paddocks. Even the towns we passed through were more like country towns rather than tourist villages.

We passed through Northampton, a tiny little town of one street. At one time it had been the largest town in WA after Perth, and had a train running between it and Perth. (We've heard this story a few times about a few different towns, and aren't really sure who to believe any more.) But it still has a few beautiful old buildings, so worth a look at.

We then moved on to Geraldton, which actually is a big town, the biggest we have seen for some time now. It has a large harbor and marina. It is the main town on what is sometimes called "The Shipwreck Coast" or "The Batavia Coast", which is the name of the most famous ship to be wrecked here. The museum has the full story, and it is very interesting.

Apparently the Dutch East India Company found the quickest way to get to the East Indies and the spice route was to go around the Cape of Good Hope, then stay south for a while, awaiting the currents and winds to take them up. Sometimes they misjudged distances and stayed south too long, until they ran into the west coast of Australia. (So the Dutch discovered Australia way before the British, but only the west coast which was dry and arid, so they weren't really interested in it.)

If they noticed Australia soon enough, they just hung a left and headed up, but often it sprang up on them, and they literally ran into Australia. This area has a lot of low reefs and cliffs, so there have been many shipwrecks over the years. The Batavia is the most famous of these, and the story goes that before the shipwreck, a mutiny was afoot. When the ship ran into the reef, most of the crew and passengers ended up on an island, and the captain took some men in the life boat up to Java to get help. But the head of the mutineers, knowing that everyone knew what he was planning, and that he would be prosecuted if help came, set about attacking those people left behind and organizing an army to fight off the would-be rescuers. It ended up being a very bloody battle, with very few survivors.

The other thing Geraldton is famous for is the HMAS Sydney memorial, a large dome made of birds. This was built in 1999, when no-one knew where the ship actually lay. After this, in 2008, it was finally found a bit north of Geraldton, but the monument still stands.

After Geraldton we headed down the Indian Ocean Drive, which followed the coast. This is a nice drive that goes through a string of small coastal towns and fishing villages like Dongara, Port Dennison, Leeton, Green Head, Jurien Bay, and Cervantes. Each of these has its own character, but they are all lovely little towns. The day we passed through was overcast, cold and windy, but on a warm sunny day they would be superb. Each has small curvy bays of white sand and turquoise water. Being only two to three hundred Kms north of Perth, you can see why there is so much development happening here.

Cervantes is the closest town to the Pinnacles, basically a field of tall spindly rocks. So everything in town is trying to cash in on the act, including the motel with the papier mache rocks out the front. Not really worth the effort, I think.

GeorgeY's bit

In this entry we visited three towns and some smaller bits, and I found my land.

Northampton is small, so I think their best claim currently will be the "Most shrunk town in WA". Of course they will be competing with many other shriveled up towns here, but they stand a good chance in claiming this title.

Geraldton is a big town with a big wharf exporting stuff. The city is set along the water front, with open views and good coffee places. Most buildings are low and set back from the foreshore and the nice esplanade is only marred by some eye sore high rise plops made by Accor and Peppers and the like, with the nasty intension to block everyone out excluding only few rich p**** in typical Sydney style opportunism.

Other than the Dutch style of discovery by shipwrecking, mostly due to poor visibility, poor navigation, and rum consumption, (all of which is thoroughly detailed at the museum) they also have an impressive memorial for the HMAS Sydney. I don't think it was found near Geraldton, but among small towns it is the only one that can afford the metal dome and statues set on a high hill with commanding views.

Cervantes is named after a wreck and is the gateway to the famous Pinnacles. No one knows how they formed and some are smaller than termite mounds. Even the big ones were not massive and some were of a very rude shape. Because of their unusual structure, geologists are trying to answer the big question "How they were formed?" Meanwhile I try to answer the bigger question "Why bother?"

For some time I claimed my aboriginal ancestry to the Boolandjeree tribe, and the Patisserie clan to be precise. I was happy when I found evidence of my land, written with the correct spelling, and I hope that one day a valuable mineral will be discovered so I can lay claim about a sacred site of traditional importance. But till then, couldn't be stuffed.