The Devil's Marbles was the last of the 'new' things we hadn't seen on our previous travels. On that trip we had come west from Queensland, through Mt Isa, and met the Stuart Highway at a roadhouse called 3 Ways. Although Tennant Creek was south of this, it was only about 25 kms south, so we had taken a little detour to check it out as we had heard the name before. We weren't very impressed last time, so were keen to see if anything had changed over the past three years.

As this was the last proper town, rather than just a roadhouse, we left the Devil's Marbles early and headed there to try to find a café breakfast. And we did - we found a very chic café run by three or four Chinese girls which would not have been out of place in Carlton. The whole town seemed cleaner and neater than last time. It seemed to have a bit more pride in itself. Perhaps it was because we had come in the early morning. Perhaps it was the multi-cultural effect here too. Whatever it was, even the Aboriginals seemed to have more pride.

We then continued north. Last time we had been so keen to leave Tennant Creek we had set off early in the morning, and not stopped until we got to Mataranka. This time we decided to break it up a bit and check out other things we may have missed.

We stopped at the Telegraph Station just out of Tennant Creek. This one was actually free, and quite interesting. Then we continued up the highway, with very little to break up the monotony. We stopped at Elliott, as we were told by the lady at the tourist info centre in Tennant Creek that this was a town, not just a roadhouse, so fuel would be cheaper. It was cheaper, but it wasn't much of a town. We did manage to find a park with some grass and some shade, so we stopped for lunch.

We drove on again for several hours, and noticed the landscape slowly changing from dry dusty scrub with low bushes. Now there were proper trees, which grew taller, thicker, and lusher as we went.

We decided to spend the night at Daly Waters, home of the Northern Territory's first pub. We had been warned the pub could get a bit rough, so we stayed the night at another caravan park a few kilometres away, and checked out the historic pub in the morning. This caravan park also had a small pub, and everyone who stayed was given a voucher for two free beers at the bar. It was a very nice happy hour, and a chance to meet other campers.

The wildlife here was amazing. In the morning we saw several small wallabies grazing in the paddocks, and flocks of rainbow lorikeets flitting around from tree to tree. Overhead were several kites, soaring majestically though the air. And as we washed the dishes in the camp kitchen, as I lifted the last plate out there was some greenish brown lump left behind. It took me a minute to realize this was a frog, then it promptly disappeared down the plug hole.

The historic pub looked fun, and all the people who had been through had left souvenirs - from banknotes, to student cards, to under wear. Quite eclectic.

Another short drive brought us in to Mataranka, one of our favourite places from last time. This has some hot springs which flow gently at a consistent 34 degrees all year round. There is a U shaped section where you can enter, holding on to a noodle, and drift downstream through tropical foliage and shady palms. At the end you can jump out and walk back a short distance, then do it all again. The water was heavenly. And although the weather was warmer this time, the water was just as refreshing.

Here we finally felt we had reached the tropics. The area was thick with palms and the creek had water lilies and mangroves. Frangipani and other tropical flowers were blossoming everywhere. And at night, we were told, the fireflies would be out. Apparently this is their mating season, just before 'the wet'.

So we made our way back after sunset, and the whole bush was alive with flickering points of light, flitting across our path, then soaring up into the trees. Magic.

All throughout the caravan park wallabies hopped along, seemingly unafraid of humans. Small lizards slithered through the foliage picking up unwary insects. And at night frogs suddenly appeared everywhere. Next day, we even got to meet a friendly peacock and feed some barramundi at the neighbouring property.

The caravan park was a five minute walk from the springs, and it was peaceful and shaded and absolutely lovely. Every bit as good as we remembered it. Love this place.

GeorgeY's Bit

Last visit our worst experience was Tenant Creek so, on the wrong part of the season this was expected to be even worse. Not true. As my speculation goes, 3.5 years of tweaking welfare delivery, the grocery card debate and other policies might have an input. Asian invasion is a God send to Outback Australia. Cultural diversity that has been depleting from places like Coober Pedy is slowly being restored. Even back there the best Bakery/Café was run by a lovely Indian guy from Mulgrave Victoria. In Tennant Creek, three young Chinese girls served great coffee and sweets with a smile. Later they were four, then I spotted a fifth one, all identical like they came from the photocopier but Eva decided to average them as four.

Mataranka had a special impression last time and there was concern of disappointment. With the added heat we struggled, but it was as lovely as it was in winter - still had the same effect in a scorcher time. The water in Bitter Springs was clear and all plants under were Hi Vis green. Amazing wildlife and the fireflies are a sight to behold. This is one place that will "Never Never" let you down.

As wildlife on the road goes, nothing matches wedge tailed eagles. We saw a few taking off up close. but the camera is never fast enough. Eva also liked kites and there was plenty around road kills on the roads. She liked the tip of their wings and the way they fly with not much flapping but, more on this next time.