Springs, Rivers, Waterfalls and Gorges

As mentioned last entry, as we headed north the dry dusty country became progressively more green and lush, despite us being in the dry season. And water plays a huge role in this area, in various forms.

Our first encounter was the hot springs at Mataranka. This runs at a constant 30 to 32 degrees all day, all night, all year. At Bitter Springs the warm water flows gently, and if you hold onto a noodle and relax, you can sit back and float down the river for some distance, then jump out, walk back, and do it all again. We stayed at a caravan park right next to the springs, so we could walk there easily. And the best thing was going there the next morning, when it was a bit chilly, and slipping into the water. It was like slipping into a hot bath. And the mist coming up off the water in the cold morning was a magical sight.

There is a second hot spring at Mataranka called Rainbow Springs, but this has been cleaned up a bit and turned into a concrete pool. It is not as nice, and is more a place for the oldies to sit and pickle a bit. Mataranka is also the home of the lady who wrote the book "We of the Never-Never". This has recently been made into a movie, and they have made a replica of the homestead in which it was set.

Our next port of call was Katherine, and of course the Katherine Gorge, with the river flowing through it. Apparently there are thirteen gorges in all, but most cruises only cover the first two or three, and it is gorge Number 2 which is the most spectacular with its steep walls. It's the one that features in all the brochures. Between each gorge there was an area of shallow pools and rocks, where we had to get out and walk for a bit, and take another boat in the next gorge.

Later that day we made our way to Edith Falls, a waterfall at the other end of Katherine. It was not a very majestic waterfall, but it had a nice plunge pool at the base of it where we could swim. It was cold, after the lovely warm water at the springs, but very refreshing. We spent the night in the national park camping area. Arriving a bit late we were told it was full, but the lady managed to squeeze us in half a site next to another camper trailer. He was not impressed.

The next day we made our way to Litchfield National Park, a bit further north. This is a really nice park containing several waterfalls of various heights and sizes, most with plunge pools for swimming. There is also a place called Buley Rockholes, which is a series of shallow cascades, flowing gently over rocks, forming various rock pools along its way. This is a great spot for kids to take a dip and climb around between the pools.

Of the waterfalls, Florence Falls was very nice, but it could only be reached by going down 135 steps. That wasn't so bad, but after a good swim and feeling refreshed, you then had to climb up those 135 steps again. Tolmer Falls was beautiful to look at, but you could not swim. Wangi Falls was the best - easy to reach, a big plunge pool, and a majestic torrent thundering down continuously. You can swim right up to the fall and feel its power, or you can climb the rocks around it, and brave souls can dive off these into the deep pool.

The caravan park near Litchfield was lovely, and the owners hold a free sausage sizzle every 2 to 3 nights. This is a really good opportunity for all the residents to get to know each other and share their stories. And the owners run a bar service, which does good business. Not having to arrange your own dinner, most are happy to have a drink or two. A win-win situation I think.

GeorgeY's bit

In this entry we found beauty in Mataranka, shonky accommodation in Katherine, and made a lot of friends whose names we can't remember.

The water here is clear, warm, and does not smell of sulfur. This has the direct effect on people of making them to talk to complete strangers as easily as old friends. Again, the pictures are not doing it justice, and I doubt any camera or photographic wizardry can. Plenty of waters, amazing rocks, and perfect weather work well together to undo stress acquired from long drives.

Arriving late at Katherine we were told that the town caravan park, which is next to their hot springs, was full. We were advised by many people before to book ahead, but as we do not have a detailed set plan, we did not. Also we became too relaxed about many things. So coming late to a town with no place for you is a good reason to panic, and we did. Panic triggers a series of reactions, like trying to use Wikicamps and Camps7 without applying Rule 1 (look before you book.) This all contributed to us ringing around and booking a night at Shady Lane Tourist Park. It had good reviews on Wikicamps, but that was the only good to be found. See more details in my review above. One night and we were off.

The rest was bliss, and something for everyone. Rocks, and flora, and fauna, combined together with water, to create a varied and beautiful picture everywhere you looked. I am neither a geologist, a hydrologist, nor am I a bird watcher, but this place can not be ignored. I think I have found my roots, but more on that in the next entry.