Day 4 - Santa Cruz Island

After brekky we were taken ashore to the Charles Darwin Research Centre. This is where they monitor the tortoises and have breeding and release programs. Also the home of famous Lonesome George. They are also breeding Land Iguanas. This was a changeover day and Liz who was only on a 3 day tour headed to the airport which meant that in the afternoon we would have 13 new passengers join us. It was going to be weird to have the boat full.

So we went back aboard to wait the intruders (as we called them). Eventually they joined us, a mixture of older people and people our age although there was two annoying blondes amongst them. They settled in, we had lunch and then back ashore where we jumped on a bus for the trip to the highlands of the island where we were going to see the Giant Tortoises in the wild.

Where we went was a cattle farm which is in the National Park but they have permission from the National Park Services to have fences for their stock, but the bottom wire is high enough for the tortoises to pass thru as they wish. They are not contained at all. It was amazing to see them, all different sizes and just scattered around munching on grass or doing nothing in mud pools. It would have been an amazing sight all those years ago when there was tens of thousands of them. They estimate about 6000-7000 are left on Santa Cruz. They are also on other islands, but not the ones we are visiting.

Back to the main town where we had 45mins free time before back on the boat. After dinner, Lisa and I hung around the back of the boat talking to some of the crew, practicing our spanish. We were a bit antisocial with the others but this is what we were used to. The others all went to bed quite early but we put a DVD on to watch and then crawled into bed. The boat was setting sail at midnight and I hoped to be asleep before we left. Didn't really work but it was OK because it was so calm compared to what we had already been thru. A great sleep.

Day 5 - Floreana Island

Up at my normal 6am, grabbed my cup of tea and went to the back of the boat where I started each morning. I love the tranquillity of that time of the morning. Although this morning, a Sea Lion had decided to have a rest down on the bottom steps. When I saw the captain I told him I was very happy to have finally not been sick and he told me the rest of the sailing should be like this. Yeah... Then one of the new group came out and said they couldn't believe how rough it was. I just laughed and told them how calm it was.

Breakfast at 7am and then a wet landing on Cormorant Point. Went for a small walk to see more Greater Flamingos, Darwin Finches and then to a white sandy beach which is a nesting point for Sea Turtles. We could see some in the water and one female was being harassed by 2 males. She came a little inshore to get rid of them.

Back on board and then in the dingy to do some deep water snorkelling. The current was quite strong and a little chilly. Saw another penguin and lots of fishes.

Lunch and siesta before we went ashore to Post Office Bay. This is where the original post office barrel has been located since 1792 (it has been replaced a few times). The idea is that people leave mail and then people check it and if you find mail addressed to where you are going, you hand deliver it. Nothing for Blacktown!!!

We went for a snorkel here but quite chilly. Saw two Sea Turtles in the water. Love them. Some of the crew came ashore for a game of footy. Guess they don't get much exercise.

Back on board and after our briefing all the crew were formally introduced to us. Bit late for Lisa and me but they were all wearing their official whites and we were given a cocktail for a toast. After dinner the boat set sail, but once again it was nice and calm and the stars were out so I went up and did some stargazing. I love the calm waters.

Day 6 - Espanola Island

Breakfast at 7am and then a dry landing on Saurez Point. This walk was amazing. In the bay, lots of Sea Lions and their babies who were playing like little children. You had to watch your step because there were Marine Iguanas everywhere and even the occasional sea lion blended in with the rocks. Lots of birds, more Masked Boobies, and finally up close and personal with the famous Blue Footed Bobbies. We also saw Galapagos Hawks and the Waved Albatross and their babies. Got to see one albatross take off in flight and also a blowhole in action. Just amazing.

Back on board and the boat was moved to Gardiner Bay about 45mins away. The captain took me into the bridge for a drive and some photos and then I sat out the front and enjoyed the peace and quiet and the sun. Just beautiful.

After lunch, we had a wet landing on the beach which was just free time to snorkel. Lots of Sea Lions on the beach and in the water so got to snorkel with them. The visibility wasn't the best to see anything else so just sat on the white beach where it pretty much felt like we were being cooked. So hot.

Back on board and we set sail for San Cristobal. After dinner we had the chance to go ashore to Puerto Vaquerizo Moreno but for a Saturday night everything was closed. Used the internet and bought a couple of small gifts and that was that.

Day 7 - San Cristobal & Santa Fe

Late breakfast this morning, 7.30am, although it didn't matter because I was up at 6am anyway as usual. Went ashore to visit the Interpretation Centre. Only small but some info about the human history of the islands. Some free time ashore and then back to the boat. We had an early lunch and then set sail for Santa Fe.

Once arrived, snorkelling from the dingy and it was great. We saw Eagle Rays, Galapagos Sharks, lots of fish and Sea Turtles. Back aboard for a quick change and then a wet landing on the island and a walk. More Sea Lions to watch and then we got to see a Galapagos Hawk really close. Not afraid of us at all. This island has beautiful cactus and Land Iguanas which we got to see. On the zodiac ride back to the boat, we saw loads of Eagle Rays and more sharks.

Beautiful sunset before a hot shower and our briefing. The crew came up again to say goodbye as it was our last night. After dinner we set sail for the last time. More stargazing up above.

Day 8 - North Seymour

Last morning of tranquillity on the back of the boat. Really sad to know this was it. Dry landing ashore and a walk to see more birds and the other type of Land Iguana there is on the Islands. More Blue Footed Boobies but the highlight is the Frigate Birds, and the male with his big red sac on his throat. He blows this up to attract females. Time to say goodbye and go back to the boat.

We set sail to Baltra for the airport and it was all over. Very sad to say goodbye to some of the crew. Had spent much time talking to some of them and even stargazing with one of them.....

We had our last zodiac ride ashore and then on the bus for the 5min trip to the airport. Flight to Quito and met by Intrepid guide who took us to the hotel. I felt whipped, so tired. Lisa and I had an early dinner at a steakhouse and I crawled into bed at 8pm.

Summary

These 8 days on the islands were absolutely amazing, more than I could have hoped for. I would do it all over again, even the sea sickness. Having only 3 of us on board was great. We got to know the crew and they got to know us. When we had the formal intro's we had to say our name and where we were from but when it got round to Lisa and me the crew all shouted our names and Australia. The new group didn't really try to get to know them.

The wildlife was amazing, so close to these animals and they don't care. The Sea Lions walk up to you. You need to move for them. The boat was fantastic and can highly recommend it and Intrepid. I'm trying to figure out when I can return...