Takes one back to a different time to be woken by peacocks - who live in the Alcazar nearby - in our little room in a very traditional house down a tiny alley in the historic centre of Sevilla. The buildings in this town have been beautifully maintained and restored. In spite of the many visitors the town is very clean. You just need to lose yourself in the little alleyways and you don't hear and see the tourist masses. This town has magnificent buildings and so much more atmosphere than Madrid ..most probably because of its size. There is far too much to see and experience in our 4 days here - just enough to scratch the surface and hope to return.
In the mornings we have had breakfast at a little cafe on a main street facing the overpowering cathedral. I always find it amazing, that you arrive in a new place and everything looks and smells so strange and foreign, but 24 hours later you have already established some familiarity. Sitting at breakfast, next to tram lines with futuristic trams trundling past , bicyles in the cycle lanes that run alongside the tram lines, with skaters and in-liners interspersed with pedestrians all in the same area without any demarcations - watching buskers playing South American rythems (2 guitars and a whole drumset with a drummer who is REALLY into drumming at 11h00) and balancing acts, and telling the umpteenth gypsey that I don't want a rosemary twig or my fortune told (my dear husband does that anyway !) - and realising that with all this action happening around us - the huge and totally amazing Cathedral has just become a backdrop.
We have manged to immerse ourselves in the historic Seville - doing several walking tours through the different historic areas - home of incredible churches, palaces, architecture, monuments, flamenco, bull fighting and the Inquisition !
Seville was the main port for the explorers coming back from the Americas, and therefore had a golden age with huge wealth, which is clearly reflected in the architecture, monuments and churches. The artists and artisans of the time were definately in great demand and could hone their skills through all the commissions by the wealthy patrons - one wanting to outdo the next (again we see - as much as things change - they stay the same !).
Seville had an Expo in 1929 to showcase Spain and the Americas. Huge buildings were built as pavillions for the different countries at the time, although it was overshadowed by the start of the Great Depression. These buildings are now used to house public buildings, parliamentary offices, the university and museums. Grand architecture on a grand scale ...it must be every architects dream !
The later 1992 Expo developed modern infra-structure on the other side of the river, with some impressive bridges and buildings. The area is used as a techno-park now, as well as for an Amusement Park, but looks quite deserted and under-utilised and not that inviting to visit.
We visited the two main attractions of Seville, the Seville Cathedral and also the Royal Palace - Alcazar and Clint also did the tour of the Bull-Fighting Museum. Could not quite get myself to go there !
Firstly, the Alcazar. It is a royal palace dating back to the 11th Century during the time of the Moorish occupation. The bottom storey of the palace dates back to this time and the architecture and decorations reflect the building style and art. Utterly amazing and beautiful ! Later, during the 14th century and the re-conquering of Spain by the Christian King, the palace was extended and extra floors were built on top of the Alcazar ...in a Gothic, and later Renaissance style. Large gardens with beautiful waterfeatures are attached to the palace, some parts still reflecting the Moorish style, others the strict geometric Italian style and then there are the more free and rambling English Gardens. Beautiful trees give much needed shade and it is amazing how cool it feels as soon as you step out of the direct sunlight.
There are many patios or courtyards throughout the palace - reminiscent of the Moorish architecture and also used for airflow and to keep cool through the very hot summer months. We are told that the temperature can reach 50 degrees here in the summer months and then Seville is deserted !
The Alcazar is the oldest palace in Europe that is still inhabited, as the Spanish Royals stay here when they visit Seville. It is such a beautiful and serene place, that it is easy to see why !
The Cathedral, which is located next to the Alcazar and surrounded by Plazas, is really awe-inspiring. It is huge ...the tower being 100m high, with huge gothic arches and many elaborately decorated chapels along the sides. It gave me the feeling of being The Vatican of Spain. The multitude of paintings, carvings, sculptures, bronzes, silver and gilded objects is just absolutely overwhelming. So much treasure !
It did get me thinking though.... During the moorish rule of Spain, the Gypseys,the Muslims, Jews and Christians all lived in the same towns, although mainly in different areas of the same town, and respected each other and each others beliefs and traditions. Not long after the Christian King reconquered Spain, the Inquisition was brought to life and remained for several hundred years - putting an end to harmony amongst the different groupings. Anyone that did not follow Catholicism was persecuted and needed to leave. Rather sad and harsh ...especially as these people had been living in Spain for Generations. Not something Jesus would have wanted ...one would think...with all these acts being committed in his name.
Then ...looking at all the overwhelming ornamentation and accumulation of wealth in the churches ...although great for the artists of the time and now for us to admire in wonderment - can't really think that this is what Jesus lived and died for either. All very strange really ! Even more sad are the tombs in the churches venerating bishops and cardinals, who in their day were in charge of the Inquisition and overseeing the most gruesome torture and capital punishment for the heinous crime of using olive-oil, not eating pork or daring to speak to a Lutheran ! Really sad ...and makes one wonder which of our "normal values" future generations will look back on and wonder "what were they thinking !" .
My main thought is still though ...if all those years ago people were able to live in harmony, why have we not been able to get back there and have remained so polarised ! Also interesting I think, that Christians in the Middle Ages felt that they needed to defend their beliefs theough vilence with the sword and that these days, the Muslims feel they need to do the same. Either history repeats itself, or we just don't learn and progress. Thoughts while wandering through this impressive architecture ...realise that I know too little of the history...and one always needs to remember, that history is written by the conquerors and not the conquered ...so usually a one-sided very specific view, which omits so much of the reality.
And now back to soaking up the sun and the atmosphere for one last evening in glorious Sevilla...in the plaza at the Alcazar..listening to flamenco guitars and the screeching of the peacocks.